is it worth it????????/ - Page 2 - SV650.org

northwind · 06-09-05, 05:17 PM

I got no noticable changes changes in fuel economy at all... A weel tuned, well fueled engine should return better economy than a badly set up one, though, so for example a K&N filter and can will almost certainly get shorter tank rantges than a K&N filter, can and rejet.

07-09-05, 10:25 AM

I only ride for fun so not really worried bout fuel economy specially with way fuels rising at the mo!! but all that money just for little power

might re think it cheers for all your help much appreciated. out of interest how much would a stage 2 kit cost to buy fit set up etc

07-09-05, 10:49 AM

If you want instant and very cheap extra go, then stick on a 47 tooth rear sprocket.

.

07-09-05, 10:25 PM

I wouldn't call a 17% increase small.

My fuel economy was virtually identical to standard after the jet kit was fitted.

RandyO - Have a look at the dyno printout. That certainly looks like a substantial gain in peak power to me.

Cost - Well a couple of jets should cost you maybe 4-5 pounds; Filter - no idea what the going rate is over in the UK but I can pick up a BMC 20510R filter (like I am using) for $70 Aus which is about 25 pounds. Needles - somewhere around 15 pounds.

It takes a little time to pull out the carbs and fit everything but if you have a moderate amount of mechanical nouse, or know someone who does it's easy to fit yourself. Fine tuning will need to be done by a professional but if can give them a good start point then it saves you.

I'd figure you'd be able to have it all done for about 100 pounds, if you fit the kit yourself.

TSM · 07-09-05, 10:43 PM

When i got some other stuff from PDQ i also ordered some DJ140 jets for my bike. When looking at the DJ kit info it seem to also come with a needle and drill bit, is the needle only for the EURO bikes because they dont have multi step needles??? What about the drill bit for the slides??

07-09-05, 10:56 PM

ok got the can changed, quick question. someone said that after a while Id need to rejet/dyno it as the bike was set up for the standard can and putting the scorpion on and removing baffle would effect it.

is that true? and what actually needs to be done if the bike is starting to behave a little oddly?

northwind · 07-09-05, 11:14 PM

PeterM, no offence... But most of your 17% rise seems to come from the fact that your baseline figure is pretty darn low, with a seriously flat-topped, chopped-off curve. Looking at that I suspect you either had some real jetting issues which were dragging that figure down, or that run was done in less than ideal conditions, making the rejetted figure seem artificually high. Do you have any bone stock figures for your bike?

09-09-05, 06:10 AM

No offence at all mate.

That 1st run is the closest thing I've got to a stock run, and even then the only mod was the slip-on.

All these runs were done on the same dyno and the bottom two were done on the same day. The reason that the bottom curve tapers off is due to the restrictive nature of the stock air filter. Removing that & replacing with the race filter and then fitting the bigger jets made all the difference. Obviously a big jump in available air/fuel mix going from 137.5 mains to 160fr / 157.5rr.

I'm not on my own as far as the gains at the top due to the breathing there.

Drilling the slides isn't necessarily the be all and end all, you get quicker initial resonse but remember you need to alter you air screw to suit as the vacuum in the carb body has changed.

northwind · 09-09-05, 07:25 PM

Nah, that flat top's not because of the stock filter, take a look around for what a stock SV ought to look like and compare.

Here's a nicer looking curve off the JHS website- red is standard.

Or, a horrible image of mine, dynoed with a CCC road legal can (chambered, not a baffled race can) and no other mods:

For comparison mine made a clear 10bhp more at the rear wheel than yours with a more restrictive slipon and no other mods. Or to put it differently, mine with no meaningful mods made the same power as yours did after your rejet. Obviously some of that could be environmental differences or dyno calibration, but I bet you a pound that your jetting gains are mostly recovered losses. The shape of the curve just isn't right for an SV.

09-09-05, 09:41 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jonboy

If you want instant and very cheap extra go, then stick on a 47 tooth rear sprocket.

.

Agree, you wont loose any top end either. just hit top slightly higher up the revs (only slightly). i had a post discussing this in detail earlier and did a little research on it. no down side at stock power

06-09-05, 05:17 PM	#11
northwind Moderator Mega Poster Join Date: Jan 2004 Location: In the garage where I belong Posts: 17,083	I got no noticable changes changes in fuel economy at all... A weel tuned, well fueled engine should return better economy than a badly set up one, though, so for example a K&N filter and can will almost certainly get shorter tank rantges than a K&N filter, can and rejet. __________________ "We are the angry mob, we read the papers every day We like what we like, we hate what we hate But we're oh so easily swayed"

07-09-05, 10:43 PM	#15
TSM The Sick Man Mega Poster Join Date: Nov 2004 Location: Peckham.SE.LDN Posts: 4,768	When i got some other stuff from PDQ i also ordered some DJ140 jets for my bike. When looking at the DJ kit info it seem to also come with a needle and drill bit, is the needle only for the EURO bikes because they dont have multi step needles??? What about the drill bit for the slides?? __________________ OTR: KTM 690 Duke R 2015 Full Akro SIDELINE: Kwak ZX636 A1P 2002, Red, R&G's, Yoshi, Double Bubble Screen GONE: Kwak ZX-7R P1, Full Akro, Undertray, Screen GONE: SV650S K2 Very Bruised & Without Fairing, Motovation Frame Sliders, R&G Ally Sprocket Toe Protector, HEL 2 Line Setup, GSXR K1 600 RWU Forks, Barnett Clutch & Springs, Penske 8981 Shock, Gilles Ti Rearsets, Steel Barends, Scottoiler, AFAM Chain & Sprockets, Twin FIAMM Horns, Skidmarx Bellypan, Full Micron Zeta Steel System, Cut down undertay. Forum Problems & Information / Site Suggestions

07-09-05, 11:14 PM	#17
northwind Moderator Mega Poster Join Date: Jan 2004 Location: In the garage where I belong Posts: 17,083	PeterM, no offence... But most of your 17% rise seems to come from the fact that your baseline figure is pretty darn low, with a seriously flat-topped, chopped-off curve. Looking at that I suspect you either had some real jetting issues which were dragging that figure down, or that run was done in less than ideal conditions, making the rejetted figure seem artificually high. Do you have any bone stock figures for your bike? __________________ "We are the angry mob, we read the papers every day We like what we like, we hate what we hate But we're oh so easily swayed"

09-09-05, 07:25 PM	#19
northwind Moderator Mega Poster Join Date: Jan 2004 Location: In the garage where I belong Posts: 17,083	Nah, that flat top's not because of the stock filter, take a look around for what a stock SV ought to look like and compare. Here's a nicer looking curve off the JHS website- red is standard. Or, a horrible image of mine, dynoed with a CCC road legal can (chambered, not a baffled race can) and no other mods: For comparison mine made a clear 10bhp more at the rear wheel than yours with a more restrictive slipon and no other mods. Or to put it differently, mine with no meaningful mods made the same power as yours did after your rejet. Obviously some of that could be environmental differences or dyno calibration, but I bet you a pound that your jetting gains are mostly recovered losses. The shape of the curve just isn't right for an SV. __________________ "We are the angry mob, we read the papers every day We like what we like, we hate what we hate But we're oh so easily swayed"

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07-09-05, 10:25 AM	#12
stewiemelv Guest Posts: n/a	I only ride for fun so not really worried bout fuel economy specially with way fuels rising at the mo!! but all that money just for little power might re think it cheers for all your help much appreciated. out of interest how much would a stage 2 kit cost to buy fit set up etc

07-09-05, 10:49 AM	#13
jonboy Guest Posts: n/a	If you want instant and very cheap extra go, then stick on a 47 tooth rear sprocket. .

07-09-05, 10:25 PM	#14
PeterM Guest Posts: n/a	I wouldn't call a 17% increase small. My fuel economy was virtually identical to standard after the jet kit was fitted. RandyO - Have a look at the dyno printout. That certainly looks like a substantial gain in peak power to me. Cost - Well a couple of jets should cost you maybe 4-5 pounds; Filter - no idea what the going rate is over in the UK but I can pick up a BMC 20510R filter (like I am using) for $70 Aus which is about 25 pounds. Needles - somewhere around 15 pounds. It takes a little time to pull out the carbs and fit everything but if you have a moderate amount of mechanical nouse, or know someone who does it's easy to fit yourself. Fine tuning will need to be done by a professional but if can give them a good start point then it saves you. I'd figure you'd be able to have it all done for about 100 pounds, if you fit the kit yourself.

07-09-05, 10:56 PM	#16
lynw Guest Posts: n/a	ok got the can changed, quick question. someone said that after a while Id need to rejet/dyno it as the bike was set up for the standard can and putting the scorpion on and removing baffle would effect it. is that true? and what actually needs to be done if the bike is starting to behave a little oddly?

09-09-05, 06:10 AM	#18
PeterM Guest Posts: n/a	No offence at all mate. That 1st run is the closest thing I've got to a stock run, and even then the only mod was the slip-on. All these runs were done on the same dyno and the bottom two were done on the same day. The reason that the bottom curve tapers off is due to the restrictive nature of the stock air filter. Removing that & replacing with the race filter and then fitting the bigger jets made all the difference. Obviously a big jump in available air/fuel mix going from 137.5 mains to 160fr / 157.5rr. I'm not on my own as far as the gains at the top due to the breathing there. Drilling the slides isn't necessarily the be all and end all, you get quicker initial resonse but remember you need to alter you air screw to suit as the vacuum in the carb body has changed.