checking chain end of life

When I bought my Suzuki replacement chain and sprockets, it was supplied as a "loop". I assume that they still supply them that way.

Lylej, doing the chain tension is relatively easy, but you will need a torque really. And I think you have a pointy, so watch out for the axle markers turning and scoring the swinging arm.

Originally Posted by petevtwin650

And I think you have a pointy, so watch out for the axle markers turning and scoring the swinging arm.

Top tip for this, bend them out using a flat bladed screwdriver, then completely remove them.

Use a vice to squash them back into the right shape, then re-assemble.

Originally Posted by Ceri JC

Anyone know if you can buy "all in one loop" chains for the SV (K4), IE ones without a split link/that you don't rivet? I know this entails taking the swing arm off, but I'm prepared to do that (I'm a bit paranoid re: chains snapping as I've seen it happen to 2 people).

Chains snap because they are either of inferior quality/grade or not looked after. Buy a good quality chain, like a DID ZVM, get it properly fitted and keep it lubed /adjusted and you won't have problems. How do you think a chain is made at the factory, all they do is rivet them themselves, so what's the difference between them doing it or a professional fitter in this country?

Besides, I've seen a fair few snapped chains, not one of them was snapped at the soft link, so I don't know why you're worrying about it. I regularly soft link the chain on my mates ZX10R race bike when the gearing requires a chain change - never had a problem.

Top tips-

When you're adjusting the chain, to keep the wheel alignment right turn each adjuster two flats of the adjuster bolt head at a time, working from left to right until you have it right, i.e. Starting on the left, turn the adjuster bolt two flats (1/3 of a turn), move to right adjuster and repeat...check tension. Repeat however many times you need to get it tensioned right. Don't be afraid to back off one flat each dide if needed, just give the rear tyre a firm kick forwards to seat it against the adjusters once you've done it. Just a bit too slack is always better than a bit too tight... as the actress said to the bishop.

Check the tension again after tightening the wheel spindle because you can bet your ar$e chain tension got tighter when you did that up.

Also, always check tension with someone of your approximate weight sitting on the bike with it up off the sidestand. If I tension the chain on my Triumph to what the book says, it's bowstring tight when I get on the bike. When it's at the correct tension it appears slacker than a chav's jaw when I'm off the bike.

this is how loose mines become . . . oh and BTW my is really normally not so dirty too so. . .