Cold oil, painful start - Page 2 - SV650.org

yorkie_chris · 22-10-07, 10:45 PM

Oil will have to be seriously baked to go thick enough that it won't flow, even the 50w stuff in older cars would flow enough at that temperature to pour and show up in the window.
the dreaded black sludge that seems to appear seems to be baked additives, and not the oil itself.

Also, if you poured the oil in, then it can't have been that thick!

The other alternative is that there is some sort of one way valve in the system to stop the oil from draining back into the sump from the galleries and such and this has failed. Maybe change the filter as well, as theres some sort of valve in the filter itself I think.

The oil light will come on with the engine stalled, as with the oil pump not moving, theres no oil pressure!

I'd say change your oil and filter, as this has never done anything any harm and will give you a bit of peace of mind, otherwise I think you're being paranoid. (all IMO)

Spanner Man · 23-10-07, 10:27 AM

Morning all.

At the risk of starting the 'great oil debate of 2007' again. I think that cold starts are where the better Semi synthetics & the fully synthetics come into their own. As they seem to be more consistent viscosity wise. I have seen allegedly 10 weight oils that are visually thicker than others at the same temperature.
Back in the days before I*ahem* knew everything

I tested various oils to see which reached the valve gear on my Guzzi the fastest on cold starting, & the winner by some 5 seconds was a bike specific 10/40.

Most engines make quite a mechanical racket for the first few seconds after starting from cold, most of the noise comes from the valve gear, as it's the last place to receive oil.
On my Trophy 1200 the noise disappeared some 3 or 4 seconds faster upon cold starting, after switching to Castrol R4 5/40 from Morris MLR4 which is also a 5/40. This shows that there is a considerable difference in actual viscosity, despite what it says on the tin.
I shall get on my soapbox again & say, that the best oil for road use is a fully synthetic bike specific one, 10/40 or 5/40.

Cheers.

22-10-07, 10:45 PM	#11
yorkie_chris Noisy Git Mega Poster Join Date: Apr 2007 Location: Halifax/Leeds Posts: 26,645	Re: Cold oil, painful start Oil will have to be seriously baked to go thick enough that it won't flow, even the 50w stuff in older cars would flow enough at that temperature to pour and show up in the window. the dreaded black sludge that seems to appear seems to be baked additives, and not the oil itself. Also, if you poured the oil in, then it can't have been that thick! The other alternative is that there is some sort of one way valve in the system to stop the oil from draining back into the sump from the galleries and such and this has failed. Maybe change the filter as well, as theres some sort of valve in the filter itself I think. The oil light will come on with the engine stalled, as with the oil pump not moving, theres no oil pressure! I'd say change your oil and filter, as this has never done anything any harm and will give you a bit of peace of mind, otherwise I think you're being paranoid. (all IMO) __________________ Currently Ex Biker Now rebuilding a 63' fishing trawler as a dive boat

23-10-07, 10:27 AM	#12
Spanner Man Member Mega Poster Join Date: May 2005 Location: Sunbury Middlesex Posts: 1,396	Re: Cold oil, painful start Morning all. At the risk of starting the 'great oil debate of 2007' again. I think that cold starts are where the better Semi synthetics & the fully synthetics come into their own. As they seem to be more consistent viscosity wise. I have seen allegedly 10 weight oils that are visually thicker than others at the same temperature. Back in the days before Iahem knew everything I tested various oils to see which reached the valve gear on my Guzzi the fastest on cold starting, & the winner by some 5 seconds was a bike specific 10/40. Most engines make quite a mechanical racket for the first few seconds after starting from cold, most of the noise comes from the valve gear, as it's the last place to receive oil. On my Trophy 1200 the noise disappeared some 3 or 4 seconds faster upon cold starting, after switching to Castrol R4 5/40 from Morris MLR4 which is also a 5/40. This shows that there is a considerable difference in actual viscosity, despite what it says on the tin. I shall get on my soapbox again & say, that the best oil for road use is a fully synthetic bike specific one, 10/40 or 5/40. Cheers. __________________ Spanner Man http://stewarts-motorcycles.co.uk/default.html

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