Clutch 'Selection' Problems.

Originally Posted by Grinch

Popped over to Jambos last night as he rather kindly supplied a garage and use of his tools, along with assistance.

So to start we got the cover off, and then released the springs, nice and easy to get out. Removed the outer parts and the friction plates and steels, was all going fine if a little warm. We where surprised to see how loose the clutch basket nut was and it seemed the 'lock tab' was the only thing keeping it from spinning off. Once we got this out a little inspection was required and you could see the old basket was rather marked. Though so was one I was replacing it with was also marked, but not as bad.
So the replacement was filed and 'wet-n-dried' to clean it up, remembering this is a temp fix so this one might wear quick now.
Once it was cleaned up we put it all back together with the 'replacement basket', All seemed to go well, untill I started it.
Didn't matter what I did the clutch dragged, the only way I could get the bike to stop pulling forward was with the brake.
After a bit of messing about, we took a look at the Haynes manual, and noticed a part I didn't recall putting back in. The thrust washer, so pulled it all apart and presto it wasn't there. Got the old basket out of my bag, and magnetised to it was the the missing washer.
So all put together nice and quick and got the bike working again, clutch adjusted in correctly and with a thanks and wave I was away (oh and a pizza I ordered earlier).
Rode to Aldershot this morning with just a slight adjustment on the clutch to get the bitting point in right, to pick up some tyre and then to work with not problems.

So I'm a happy bunny... I'll post some pics if anyone wants see the inside and wear later.

Notes -
Main clutch basket nut is 50 Nm, with a 27mm Socket. A replacement tab washer is a good idea as it needs to be bent back.
Clutch springs 5.5 Nm (so just tighten up until they stop and leave it at that), 10mm socket.
Outer cover nuts 10 Nm and 8mm socket.

nice write up m8, gonna swop over my cluthes in the engine's when the new one arrives, i'd only put a brand new one in the old engine

[quote=Grinch;1599176]
Once it was cleaned up we put it all back together with the 'replacement basket', All seemed to go well, untill I started it.
Didn't matter what I did the clutch dragged, the only way I could get the bike to stop pulling forward was with the brake.
After a bit of messing about, we took a look at the Haynes manual, and noticed a part I didn't recall putting back in. The thrust washer, so pulled it all apart and presto it wasn't there. Got the old basket out of my bag, and magnatised to it was the the missing washer.
quote]

Been there done that.

I recently rebuilt a '99 Hayabusa clutch after it had a spring bolt unwind and punch a hole in the pressure plate, sending bits of metal everywhere. Matey was too pikey to have the motor stripped and cleaned out properly, so he asked me to just drop the sump and clean out what I could find and rebuild it with a new clutch basket, slipper mech and pressure plate. I wasn't happy about doing half a job but I made it clear to him in front of enough witnesses that I wasn't going to guarantee that his engine wouldn't destroy itself just up the road. I did 3 cheapo oil/filter changes after running it up to temp each time before he picked it up. Apparently he's done 2000 miles on it since and nothing's gone bang, so I'm happy enough.

Lozzo, quick Q , after a clutch plate and spring change would you expect the oil to burn off quickly in the engine ?

I've edited it a few more times now, just to clean it up and stuff, I'll try to add the photos tonight.

Originally Posted by drag

Lozzo, quick Q , after a clutch plate and spring change would you expect the oil to burn off quickly in the engine ?

What do you mean by burn off? Changing clutch parts shouldn't make any difference to oil consumption.

[jambo]

Originally Posted by drag

Lozzo, quick Q , after a clutch plate and spring change would you expect the oil to burn off quickly in the engine ?

I may have missed something but bikes generally run wet clutches, the clutch is partly immersed in oil the whole time it's running, so will never burn off the oil on the plates.

Jambo

well lets just say said garage change the plates + springs as the clutch was slipping, and 6 weeks later you have a burst engine with no leaks that has run out of oil, and previously it had run for about 6 months with out an oil change and twas on at the low mark when it was changed .... does that sound a little odd ....

[jambo]

Did you check the oil level when it came back from the garage?

You sure it had no leaks? Or they dropped the oil and didn't fill it up enough and you burnt off what was left.

Originally Posted by Grinch

You sure it had no leaks? Or they dropped the oil and didn't fill it up enough and you burnt off what was left.

One of us would have seen a leak, or the lowers woudl have been covered in oil, and there prety clean, it's possible they just didnt fill it, but i have no proof

Originally Posted by jambo

Did you check the oil level when it came back from the garage?

no