Valve clearances.

How do i get my cams back in as i can't get the chain loose enough.

[flymo]

Have you removed or backed off the cam chain tensioners?

Yup - there should be plenty of slack in the cam chain once the tensioners are backed off/out. I took mine out as I couldn't see an easy way of holding them backed off single handed whilst messing around with the cams.

If you take them out you may well need new gaskets though. And the rear one is not in the easiest of places to reach even with the right hand rearset removed...

[maviczap]

[QUOTE=Grinch;1911961so is there a special tool I need to pull these shims out?[/QUOTE]

Don't think so, as they should be stuck under the bucket. You might want a little magnetic pick up tool should one drop out into the head.

From memory I think that to clean and grease the swing arm bearings you need to take the swing arm out, which does require removal of the rear exhaust, as you correctly pointed out.

But a long finger might just be able to stick a blob of grease onto the bearings without removing the whole lot

[yorkie_chris]

Why does everyone say the rear CCT is hard to reach? It's LOADS easier than the front! Have you been listening to that silly bluepoof wench?

Rearset off, 1/4" ratchet, bolts out. Bish bash bosh. Done. You don't even need to buy/make a locking tool for the rear (whereas the front is a bit of a pain without one...)

Mmmh I think I will have a good swear at it tomorrow night... its getting all the timing right that I'm worried about now... Reading the haynes manual is just rotating gibberish around my head.

Originally Posted by Grinch

Mmmh I think I will have a good swear at it tomorrow night... its getting all the timing right that I'm worried about now... Reading the haynes manual is just rotating gibberish around my head.

If you take out the cam chain tensioner and its still too tight have a wiggle with your finger down the side where the cam chain tensioner goes, the plastic (?) guide could be stuck.

Also you have to make sure the cam chain has slack in the right place as that can cause issues, if you have good access to the bottom sprocket then it might be worth loosening the chain a bit at the bottom sprocket (just wiggle it, make sure its on properly though) then take up the slack from both sides and hold it taught (finger pressure only) at the top where you are going to put the cam.

And don't forget to make sure its all held in place when you put the cam chain tensioner in as that can throw out the timing and make you swear lots having to re-do it all again.

Dan

I'm not looking forward to doing this timing.

Its quite easy - just make sure that before you start work on the cams you make a note of their positions, i.e. timing marks on them and mark the relevant link on the cam chain accordingly. When it goes back together just line them back up again (i.e. timing marks on cam to link on chain).

For example with the front at TDC the exhaust and intake cams will have the ->2 and ->3 timing marks respectively pretty much pointing upwards. These will always be seperated by 16 links of the cam chain. Mark the links on the chain that correspond to the ->2 and ->3 timing marks with a marker. When you put it back together just line the same links back up to the same marks on the cams. Short of putting the cams back in the wrong way round you can't really go wrong.

All you need to remember is rotate the engine to do the front, take it apart then put it back together exactly the same, rotate the engine to do the rear, take it apart and put it together exactly the same.

After you've done both rotate the engine by hand a few times - it should spin reasonably easily - it you feel solid resistance at any point then the timing might be wrong so stop and check everything again before you hit the starter...

Cheers, James

[northwind]

Originally Posted by Grinch

Well it depends on if its a N or a S. I just had to remove the seat and Tank to do my rear, ten minute job. Where as the front I need to remove the fairing panels, mirrors and the rad, and the position looks a bit of a challenge.

What you should do, is repearedly crash until the bits on the fairing that stick into the radiatior snap off. makes it much easier. I found that if I take out one of the frame/engine bolts- front left I think it was- and remove the fan then I can swing the radiator out of the way without having to drain the coolant, which is a wee bit of a faff but I think does save some hassle.

Oh, if you need replacement shims I have a pile somewhere, from some old engines, so I might have the sizes you need. Let me know and I can have a looksee.