Bike still not starting - help!

[muzikill]

Ok, so i tested the spark plugs last night (and had a nice electric shock as well!)

Sparking fine used the old ones as a comparison just in case (you can see the spark going off and on). Blue spark from both, and as you draw the plug away from the engine casing its was arcing like it should do so either the problem has gone (i took off some plugs and reconnected them) or they are sparking as they were before.

It must now be down to starvation of fuel at the throttle bodies / crank position sensor duff / ecm. Everything is working apart from the bike not kicking in. (Ignition switch must be ok thank fook)

Immobiliser needs resetting? (i'll check that but looks like its ok so far as all the electrics are working, it immobilises the starter & ignition circuit and those are working)

Remember i had to replace the fuel pump due to leaving fuel in it and going off. I noticed when i removed the air filter the throttle bodies didnt have a pungent smell of fresh fuel as if injected into the head of the engine.

I can take the bodies off easily now, if there any way to test they are injecting fuel or clogged up? (do they receive a signal from the ecm to 'release' fuel from the fuel line into them at the right time?)

Next i will probably check the alternator / cpk sensor just to mark that off.

Advice appreciated, i'm almost there!

[Bibio]

disconnect fuel hose from throttle end and put hose in container. crank bike over and see if you get fuel out of hose.

Again there is a connection to the fuel system from the alarm connector.
Does the pump run when you turn on the ignition?

There is a Tip over sensor that tells the ecu to cut power to the pump in case the bike falls over, it is not unknown for these to become faulty certainly worth a check. its located behind the rear brake fluids reservoir. If you measure between the terminals of the red and black/brown wires (with the wires removed) you should get a reading of 19.1-19.7Kohms , if you measure with the wires on then you are looking for around 0.4 to 1.4volts. with ignition on, between the brown/white and the black/brown.

You can use a bit of wire to get the diagnostic information from the engine control module (ECM) to come up on the display. This will give the fault code and maybe some direction for you to follow. I can give detail if you require.

[muzikill]

http://forums.sv650.org/showthread.php?t=166765

Check above thread, the fuel pump primes (i had to replace it) and when the hose was removed it was pretty obvious fuel was in it (eg. fuel spraying everywhere due to the pressure & me feeling elevated from the smell)

It really is pointing towards the throttle body not 'releasing' fuel into the cylinders to be ignited. I remember taking them off and they bodies / engine head smelling of fresh fuel, but after trying to start it and dismantling it after the rebuild, it doesnt seem/smell the same.

[Bibio]

well if you are sure that there is fuel getting to the throttle bodies then it has to be the injectors not opening. are you 100% sure that you have plugged everything in?

TPS STPS, crank position, fuses, relays, PAIR, gear position etc.etc.

have you by-passed the safety switches?

[muzikill]

Originally Posted by Bibio

well if you are sure that there is fuel getting to the throttle bodies then it has to be the injectors not opening. are you 100% sure that you have plugged everything in?

TPS STPS, crank position, fuses, relays, PAIR, gear position etc.etc.

have you by-passed the safety switches?

nothing by-passed at all bud, thing is when i start her up and look into the throttle bodies from the generator side you can see them doing their calibration thingy for a cpuple of seconds before the fuel pump stop priming. It's doing my head in. ive went over the plugs more than once. I think i need to focus my next testing stage on everything associated with the bodies now. Ive done the ECM test plug check before but nothing came up on the display.

[Bibio]

ok i'll re word that.

have you tried by-passing the safety switches?

they might show up good on a multimeter or tester but have a slight fault. like some brand new spark plugs i have had a few that have been duff right out the box.

if i had the time i would nip over but i'm pretty tied up m8.

ermm. i'm an idiot. i think the starter wont kick in if the safety switches are duff and since the starter kicks in then they must be good.

[muzikill]

Originally Posted by Bibio

ok i'll re word that.

have you tried by-passing the safety switches?

they might show up good on a multimeter or tester but have a slight fault. like some brand new spark plugs i have had a few that have been duff right out the box.

if i had the time i would nip over but i'm pretty tied up m8.

ermm. i'm an idiot. i think the starter wont kick in if the safety switches are duff and since the starter kicks in then they must be good.

Aye, starter, plugs, all do the job, key ignition must be ok or else the ignition circuit would be duff. Plus the immoby must be ok or else that lot wouldnt work at all. Must be the throttle bodies, im thinking the injectors are the prob.....

[Bibio]

Originally Posted by muzikill

Plus the immoby must be ok or else that lot wouldnt work at all

not true. some of the more clever fitters disable the injector circuit.

i would have a look at your alarm manual and see if there is a reset procedure.

[muzikill]

Originally Posted by Bibio

not true. some of the more clever fitters disable the injector circuit.

i would have a look at your alarm manual and see if there is a reset procedure.

hmmm, point taken. ok svk3 throttle bodies have 2 connectors plugged in, the throttle body calibrates when the ignition turns on so it must only be one to check. one connector plugs in on the horizontal and the other has some weird looking fly lead/cable loop 'look' about it ....... game on!