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#21 | |
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Bottom yoke should be ok, that wouldve gone down with the suspension. Might be a good time to change fork oil? Where do you live, might be worth getting someone like YC or spannerman to change the oil and set them back up? |
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#22 |
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Firstly a right old bodged conversion
![]() ![]() ![]() Yup, that's a faired yoke you've got there. Someone(I know it wasn't you) has drilled an 'S' top you and fitted some risers. I'd had wanted a plate/a big washer underneath to spread the load. I'd also like to add(should have done this on your 'wanted thread')...but forgot to do it... the cables you have on at the moment ie clutch, and throttle cables are probably the faired cables. The clutch cable(looking at the bend at lever end) certainly appears to be a faired one. And looking at the level of bodginess , I'd be surprised if the other cables had been changed. Hopefully you haven't already bought some 'faired' cables as probably best to confirm what you actually have. To be honest, seeing this thread now, a bit annoyed I'd forgotten to reply in the 'wanted' thread . As a side note, you can mix and match the Curvy 'faired' and 'unfaired' yokes, no problem. Main difference is the 'unfaired' bottom yoke lock stops are chamfered(?) on the inside so the bars have a bit more 'lock' and a reduced the turning circle. Also has two drilled and tapped holes for the springloaded bracket/screw that's used for adjusting headlight. |
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#23 | |
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#24 | |
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#25 |
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You had a thread in the 'for sale' section in which I think you were looking for a sale or swap(?) with someone. That thread has now bee deleted.
Also recalled the thread linked below. http://forums.sv650.org/showthread.php?t=165485 In a nut shell, [1] You already have a faired top yoke which had just been drilled and risers added...and not a good job done of it either. [2]The cables also look like they are faired cables , so if you had thought the top yoke was off an unfaired SV(which it isn't, as I'd pointed out), you might also have thought th cables had been changed when they haven't and wasted money buying cables for the faired/time swapping them....when possibly not needed. |
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#26 | |
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I only thought the clutch cable had been changed to a longer cable but i think it was just rerouted to allow for the higher bars. |
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#27 |
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Ah cool
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#28 | |
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Massive fail. Do you think if i lighten the front end the suspension will rise again? Thanks for all the replies guys. Last edited by RenegadeMaster; 20-06-11 at 12:58 AM. |
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#29 |
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As Chris Martin once saing "Everything's not lost"
![]() Don't give yourself a hard time, we've all made mistakes, but for next time perhaps: 1) Make sure you've really understood the work before you start 2) If you've got a problem and you're not sure on the terminology, post a picture. This would have helped people get you the right advice off the bat, and stopped any fussing about the bottom yoke, which should be fine. Priority 1: Get the bike working again. Here's what I'd do: Get the front lifted up, and put the fork caps back on. There are plenty of options for this, ideally I'd use a headstock stand, NWS stand, Abba stand or something that takes the bike's weight on the frame. Failing this, use a jack at the front-right of the engine. Spread the load using a piece of wood / old piece of knee armour or similar so you don't damage the engine case. You should be able to lift the bike up to balance it so the weight is taken on the rear wheel, side-stand and jack. Some extra balast like a bag of compost on the rear seat can make this easier. A friend / family member to hold the bike steady is a very good idea. As the front wheel comes up, the forks will extend. Once there's the tinest ammount of air under the front wheel, push down on the fork caps one at a time and do them back up. Be VERY careful not to cross thread thse bolts, there's a very fine thread and it's easy to cause damage if you're not careful. Once the fork caps are back on, lower the front and the bottom yoke will hold the weight of the bike through the forks. You're now back to just fussing with the top yoke ![]() Jambo
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#30 | |
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