Boarding Loft

Originally Posted by DarrenSV650S

Don't screw the boards down if it's a new house btw.

Its not a new house it was built in the 50's but why cnt you screw boards down in a new house?

[DarrenSV650S]

I was told because the new wood needs time to settle and expand or something. My dad screwed down the boards in the attic and now the roof cracks loud as fook when the temperature changes. It's really bad in summer when it gets hot.

All wood expands, but the reason they now use 22mm thick chipboard flooring is, amongst other things, to reduce shrinkage.

In new extensions I do, I screw the boards down and never had any issues.

I absolutely guarantee if you nail the boards down they will squeak as the nails lift, the right screws with the right distance between them is the way to go.

[MisterTommyH]

Originally Posted by Kilted Ginger

However technically you are not supposed to chisel joists to run cables any more, supposed to drill through the joist. Sure some mech tech could explain how a hole through a joist weakens it less than a notch out of its side.

Same reason windows in boats are round - no nasty sharp corners.

Originally Posted by Gazza77

Use a different insulation, eg kingspan.

Even kingspan is likely to be 150mm in the direction of the joists and 150mm perpendicular - minimum. If your determined on putting boarding down you might as well save yourself some money and just put half down, because you'll need to take out the top layer to get to the joists. Another option would be to make it a warm roof and put the insulation (the expensive foil backed kind) on underside of the pitched section. But it's not as efficiet and costs more.

Originally Posted by specialone

All wood expands, but the reason they now use 22mm thick chipboard flooring is, amongst other things, to reduce shrinkage.

In new extensions I do, I screw the boards down and never had any issues.

I absolutely guarantee if you nail the boards down they will squeak as the nails lift, the right screws with the right distance between them is the way to go.

Yup, Wood creaks. The plasterboard on your ceiling in fixed to the timbers - not that much difference. Just accept that it will move and maybe re-set it every once in a while if it bothers you.

Was thinking of leaving the board section, uninsulated, makes more sense, as a percentage of the floor in the loft it is tiny. I will insulate the rest though.

I have another question, lol, they are assessing for cavity wall insulation now the first floor of my house is cladded with these green tiles, i think my cause an issue, what is everyone else's thoughts

[MisterTommyH]

Is the tile hanging fixed on battens on blockworks/brickwork,

Or is it set on battens on timber frame works.

If its brick/block and there is an actual cavity between leaves then no problem (although it might not be the simplest job to get it installed - either take tiles off and do from outside, or do from inside and accept that it will be mess and create holes in yout plaster / decorations.

If it's actually a timber frame beneath the tiles do not let them install full fill cavity insulation. There is an inherant problem with the system in this type of construction and (as it currently stands) mortgage companies won't lend against properties with this - so you may not be able to sell.

Its tiles fixed to batons, why will mortgage companies not lend against the latter?

[MisterTommyH]

Both will (should) be fixed to batens, it's just what those battens are fixed to - should be either block or timber studs.

I'm not 100% on the reasons for it (it's something to do with interstitial condensation) - but from what I understand installing full fill cavity instulation changes the dew point within the wall and moves it into the zone of timber.

A problem I can also see is that cavities are better if they are free draining (i.e. rigid board insulation to one side and a physical gap for the cavity). You can't retro-fit this without taking a wall down so it's not practical and full-fill is the answer. But it does mean it can get damp (depending on the type) and is not as free draining this can then sit against the structure - not much of an issue if it's block, but not great if it's timber.

I have only lived here for 1 month now, but I'm 99% sure the walls are Block Internal/Brick External then the tiles are fixed to batons screwed into the bricks. There is definitely block work in the loft on the end walls. The house was built in the 1950's.

[Sir Trev]

As a general question - what do you all keep in your loft? And why keep it??

My parents are only now clearing their loft after accumulating 45 years of junk. Most of it is being binned as it's worthless rubbish. When I moved house ten years ago I cleared the loft and realised all the stuff up there had gone in when we moved in and we'd never touched it again.

I keep empty suitcases and the Christmas tree in mine. Nothing else is allowed to go up there or it just stays there forever.