Replacing The Clutch Plates

[northwind]

It's very unusual. However, not quite freakish I think. It could simply be defective parts, or it could be that it's had a small amount of slip- not enough to be obvious or massively detrimental. That'd speed wear up. I'd hedge my bets till you get the plates out though

Thanks. Yeah, I already ordered the clutch plates and a new set of cables, incidentally (in case they were stretched out), so... I guess the damage is done. I just wanted to know if there was something odd going on before I destroyed a new set of plates. Thanks for the help, northwind. You're everywhere on here! A real encyclopedia. Thanks again.

[Red ones]

10k? I would be well unhappy! (that's 9 months riding for me!) I had my curvy for 5 years and sold it at 19k with no probs on the clutch. I have had my SK5 for a year, at 14,500 miles it seems OK - adjusted today for the second time, the first would have been at 10k.


(Serviced mine today - well, did a bit of a service - I have yet to change the plugs, but they look like they might need doing by about 17,000 miles - that's right the plugs have done 17k. The air filter is pretty well a goner - too many flies and it is now uniformly grey, the chain is not in need of adjustment - that was done at 8,500 miles when the tyres were replaced, the chain and sprockets themselves look good - thanks I think to the Scotoiler. The coolant has dropped by 50 ml over the 14,500 miles and the oil changed 2,500 miles ago needed topping up by about 150ml - not bad considering I cruised at 130 the other day! - does that count as cruising? The Roadtec Z6 tyres have now done 6000 miles, the front looks good, the rear is beginning to free a little square, but might have 4,000 left in it)

[21QUEST]

Originally Posted by Mesomorphman

Haha, funny, funny.



Where in my post did I ask for information on HOW to adjust the clutch cables, 21 Quest? That is information that Jambo voluntered himself, and I am grateful for his willingness to share knowledge. I did not ask, however, so I do not believe I should be passed off as some sort of lazy bum because of it. Please read thoroughly before you act on that urge to pull the whole "search for it" card.

Mesomorphman , my post was meant in jest and actually aimed at Jambo. I was only pulling his legs and I'm sure he knew that.

Funny sense of humour maybe but also been taking lessons from BAPH (Don't worry Baph who is also a member here will get it) .





Cheers
Ben

[Red ones]

Check the measurements of the old ones before replacing - after all you should be able to return unused new ones if you find they are not needed - or ebay them!

Wipe off engine oil from the clutch drive plates with a clean rag .
Measure the thickness of drive plates with a vernier calipers .
If each drive plate is not within the standard range, replace it with a new one .

Drive plate thickness Standard: 2 .92 - 3.08 mm (0 .115 - 0 .121 in)

Measure the claw width of drive plates with a vernier calipers .
Replace the drive plates found to have worn down to the limit .
Drive plate claw width Service Limit : 12.9 mm (0.507 in)

CLUTCH DRIVEN PLATES
Wipe off engine oil from the clutch driven plates with a clean rag .

Measure each driven plate for distortion with a thickness gauge and surface plate .

Replace driven plates which exceed the limit .

Driven plate distortion Service Limit : 0.10 mm (0 .004 in)

CLUTCH SPRING
Measure the free length of each coil spring with a vernier calipers,
and compare the length with the specified limit .

Replace all the springs if any spring is not within the limit .

Clutch spring free length Service Limit : 50.5 mm (1 .99 in)

[jambo]

Originally Posted by 21QUEST

my post was meant in jest and actually aimed at Jambo. I was only pulling his legs and I'm sure he knew that.

Well we'll have to settle this with pistols at dawn again.... Wish we could find some way of holding up honour without getting up so ****ing early

Mesomorphman: my post was mainly ment to highlight (While being exceptionally lazy about it) that unlike many bikes Suzuki use an engaging mechanism that has it's own adjuster. There are therefore 3 points of adjustment:

1) Clutch Lever/cable freeplay at clutch lever
2) Clutch Lever/cable freeplay at base of clutch cable/top of sprocket cover
3) Clutch Bite point adjuster (10mm lock nut & flat head screw)

It's this 3rd one that people sometimes miss and you can end up with the symptoms you're seeing even if the freeplay at the lever is fine.

Edit:

Originally Posted by Sid Squid Previously wrote

Slacken off cable adjusters at top and bottom, loosen lifter locknut, back out screw a bit, ensure that lifter arm is as far down as it will go, gently turn screw in until it contacts pushrod, back it out a bit, (~1/8th of a turn), then nip up the locknut, roughly adjust cable with lower adjuster - not too tight - then with top adjuster ensure that there remains a little slack all the way from lock to lock.

Well, we can duel if you let me borrow one of your guns. I spent all my money on a front end. (And don't give me the crappy gun that shoots to the left, either).

Maybe I jumped the gun on that one. Just seems like people, many times, try to use the "use the search function" answer when it really wasn't necessary for them to post at all. Some, it seems, spend all day scour forums for posts that they can say "SEARCH, YOU IDIOT!!!" on. After two weeks of nobody answering their question, they should figure it out. :P

Anyway, I apologize for being disgruntled, and will make an attempt to be more... uh.... gruntled??? Hope you accept it, and understand where I was coming from and that it wasn't personal.

[21QUEST]

Originally Posted by Mesomorphman

Well, we can duel if you let me borrow one of your guns. I spent all my money on a front end. (And don't give me the crappy gun that shoots to the left, either).

Your location states the US therefore reasonable to to assume you are a better shot and so it's only fair you give us a head start :P

No worries at all.

Cheers
Ben

Originally Posted by jambo

Well we'll have to settle this with pistols at dawn again.... Wish we could find some way of holding up honour without getting up so p*ssing early

Mesomorphman: my post was mainly ment to highlight (While being exceptionally lazy about it) that unlike many bikes Suzuki use an engaging mechanism that has it's own adjuster. There are therefore 3 points of adjustment:

1) Clutch Lever/cable freeplay at clutch lever
2) Clutch Lever/cable freeplay at base of clutch cable/top of sprocket cover
3) Clutch Bite point adjuster (10mm lock nut & flat head screw)

It's this 3rd one that people sometimes miss and you can end up with the symptoms you're seeing even if the freeplay at the lever is fine.

Edit:

#3 is the forst thing you adjust, first, loosed cable so there is alsck at both ends, then adjust clutch (locknut & screw) then finally adjust cable

the adjusters on the ends of the cable are just what they are, clutch cable adjusters, no more

the clutch adjustment is the locknut & screw