changing my pads

Hi guys,

I posted on the talk and issues yesterday, but i was a bit dissapointed by no replies...........didnt think it was that pointless !!

There aint much meat on my front pads, so i thought id have a go at doing it myself. The back set looks fine, so i will practice on the front. I havent done them b4, so i was wondering if there is a fool proof link on here
Also, where is the cheapest place 4 a set of pads, anywhere online u guys recommend? and finally, should i change the fluid too?

cheers guys

[maviczap]

H'mm maybe get a Haynes manual if you haven't done brakes before, as if they don't work, you're in a lot of trouble!

But changing the pads isn't difficult, it's quite straightforward. Maybe people don't want to give you advice, just in case you fook it up!

Good place to buy you pads is here

http://www.wemoto.com/

At the same time buy some Red Rubber grease, just a small pot, but your brakes will be better for it, if you grease the seals and pistons.

Buy some brake cleaner from Halfrauds or similar and a small tube of copper grease.

Don't think there are any quick links on this site for brake services.

No you don't HAVE to change the fluid, but depends when it was last changed. If in doubt change it.

its more simple than it looks. at first i was worried about taking the calipers off but now its not a problem. have a look you'll soon see that the pads are only held in with one pin, just match up the new pads with old and stick new ones where old ones were.

the copper grease, cleaner and a torque wretch is a good idea if you dont have them. the front calipers need to be done back up at 39nm according to a haynes manual. (Haynes manual - if you not got one get one it will be your bible)

quite satisfying once you done it.

[maviczap]

Originally Posted by scottjames

its more simple than it looks. at first i was worried about taking the calipers off but now its not a problem. have a look you'll soon see that the pads are only held in with one pin, just match up the new pads with old and stick new ones where old ones were.

the copper grease, cleaner and a torque wretch is a good idea if you dont have them. the front calipers need to be done back up at 39nm according to a haynes manual. (Haynes manual - if you not got one get one it will be your bible)

quite satisfying once you done it.

Yes, but don't foget that the pad retaining pin is held in place by a very small R clip

[the_lone_wolf]

Originally Posted by shakie1973

changing my pads

13 hours and not one TENA joke?

i'm surprised...

The hardest bit of the whole job is getting the pins out. There are a few options but I have found that a combination of heat and careful application of 3-in-1 oil works. You may also find that the pistons and seals are sticking due to winter corrosion so will need a good clean, or seals replaced. Just did mine for the MOT and they feel loads better.
By the time you have bled the system you will have virtually replaced the fluid anyway.
I found the job easier than it first seemed and can do a full strip down, clean, refit and bleed in an hour now.
The manual is the best thing to get and make sure you put any bits you take off into a pot/tray to keep clean and safe.
Good luck.

[Richie]

Originally Posted by svrich

The hardest bit of the whole job is getting the pins out. There are a few options but I have found that a combination of heat and careful application of 3-in-1 oil works. Good luck.

Just done mine....
exactly the way you just described....

[punyXpress]

Don't top the fluid up too soon. If you do it will only come ppping out when you push the pads back.
For the Lupine One: Find the Saga Bumper Bundle Incontinence Pack attends to all my needs!

[Dave20046]

It was a case of a punch, blowtorch and mole grips for mine. I put them back in without applying copper grease though cause I've lost my tub!