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#1 |
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http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/1507232618...84.m1438.l2649
Im about to get these, better than OEM & i wont need expensive ones either. Just need to check, these are HH?
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Learn to maintain your bike, take it apart, rebuild the engine & more (using better bolts ![]() K3 Job c.v: Engine:remove/split/rebuild/refit. Replace:Gearbox,Fuel pump,Gaskets. Piston clean,rings. Overhaul:Throttle body,Injectors,Brakes,Forks. Remove/refit:Exhaust,Radiator,Oil cooler,Throttle,Air filter,Tank. Replace: Oil,Coolant,grease,brake hoses & bleed. |
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#2 |
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According to Goldfren...
''The AD series is optimal for common street riding on scooters, cruisers and street bikes. It is recommended for riders that do not ride really hard, but do want good stopping power if they need it. The wearing rate of this compound is 20% lower than other known sintered brake pads in the same category. The AD series is designed for low abrasive interaction with the rotor and offers quieter braking due to the ceramic composite material. Friction materials contain metal-ceramic and typical iron; finer additives are added to the base of the iron compound to achieve optimal friction properties.'' Are they better than OEM? In a word, NO... The OEM pads in my K6 were TOKIKO HH rated, and pretty good untill they got hot, then they were much better. So personally I would stick with HH rated pads, these Goldfren are probably good enough for normal rideing but when the summer comes and the pace get's progressive (or if you have a pillion) they could get overheated. |
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#3 |
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Goldfren do the HH rated ones aswell and from experience id say they were good. Gave good stopping power and feel on the front however on the rear they need heat to work so were a little vague feeling. Good vaue though, and take alot of abuse. HTH
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#4 |
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Found this from wemoto which is pretty invaluable
Brake Pad Frictional Formulation Brakes work on the crude principle of friction between two surfaces. To give a uniform measure of the frictional characteristics of a Brake Pad the SAE J866A test procedure is used to give a two character code e.g EE FF GG HH. HH or GG
Back to the drawing board! ..... thanks for the advice so far. so ..... either Front HH & Rear GG or GG all round Maybe kyoto's arent that bad for sv's and my style of riding. (im too grabby at the front brake btw)
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Learn to maintain your bike, take it apart, rebuild the engine & more (using better bolts ![]() K3 Job c.v: Engine:remove/split/rebuild/refit. Replace:Gearbox,Fuel pump,Gaskets. Piston clean,rings. Overhaul:Throttle body,Injectors,Brakes,Forks. Remove/refit:Exhaust,Radiator,Oil cooler,Throttle,Air filter,Tank. Replace: Oil,Coolant,grease,brake hoses & bleed. Last edited by muzikill; 04-01-12 at 06:26 PM. |
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#5 | |
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![]() I knew it wasn't a great idea but the HH rear pads were going really cheap and, hey, it's only the rear brake - I'm sure I never use it. ![]() It turns out I use the rear alot more than I thought I did. After snaking into one corner too many, I ditched the HH pads and now stick with GG all round. Works best for me. |
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#6 |
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i use EBC HH on front but i have 4 pot radials and to be honest its a bit overkill on the SV. the rear are still OEM and to be fair they still bite a little to much for my liking. HH are fine if you are going to be going nutz and grab handfulls from ridiculous speeds as they wont fade as much as GG will but might glaze if not being used properly. GG are the choice for everyday use and are kinder to discs, they are less likely to glaze.
some people don't like the initial bite of HH and some do. in most cases HH are the better choice untill you decide to do 'track days' where you might find you have no pad materiel left at the end of the session. |
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#7 |
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Cheers tamsv & bibio. It looks like after all of this info checking i end up back at the start again knowing that oem gg is still a perfect choice that suits the sv & me. Another way to look at it i suppose is i've overhauled the calipers so even after bedding them in the oem will feel a LOT better and thats maybe all i really need.
Plus bibio will know how much of a fairy i was last year getting back on the sv after my off. This year will be different it tell ya! Ok so the oem i am replacing (in the pics) were Front Tokico toyo C93F HH Rear Nissin TT2701 HH jeez HH all round ... and this was fitted as standard. Ordered GG all round from Wemoto. That way theres no mucking about as no-one does a full set on ebay and most of the ads dont describe if they are GG type!
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Learn to maintain your bike, take it apart, rebuild the engine & more (using better bolts ![]() K3 Job c.v: Engine:remove/split/rebuild/refit. Replace:Gearbox,Fuel pump,Gaskets. Piston clean,rings. Overhaul:Throttle body,Injectors,Brakes,Forks. Remove/refit:Exhaust,Radiator,Oil cooler,Throttle,Air filter,Tank. Replace: Oil,Coolant,grease,brake hoses & bleed. Last edited by muzikill; 04-01-12 at 10:22 PM. |
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#8 | |
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Was really because the rears were delaminated and the spares I had wern't much better As a side whats the view on the EBC street pads as a side
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RIP Reeder 20/07/1988 - 21/03/2012. Always missed squire!!! Every year we meet old friends, gain some new ones, lose old ones and you always remember them all. “Live as if you were to die tomorrow. Learn as if you were to live forever.” Mahatma Gandhi Last edited by andrewsmith; 04-01-12 at 11:38 PM. |
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#9 | |
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![]() anyway, as long as you match the front and back then alls fine ![]() |
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#10 |
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I know what you meant bibio. Im meticulous fixing stuff as you know bud.
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Learn to maintain your bike, take it apart, rebuild the engine & more (using better bolts ![]() K3 Job c.v: Engine:remove/split/rebuild/refit. Replace:Gearbox,Fuel pump,Gaskets. Piston clean,rings. Overhaul:Throttle body,Injectors,Brakes,Forks. Remove/refit:Exhaust,Radiator,Oil cooler,Throttle,Air filter,Tank. Replace: Oil,Coolant,grease,brake hoses & bleed. |
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