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#1 |
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As in title... Not sure if my battery is caput, had it a month or so, been sat in a garage with a mini alarm on that apparently only take 1 milliamp from the batt to work. Went back after 2 weeks of inactivity and completely dead...
I'm not sure if the battery was fully charged when I bought it though. Are there any tests? Thanks!
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#2 |
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get yourself a trcikle charger and that will tell you if it's knackered or not, but i'm sure there are cheaper ways too, but then having said that a trickle charger can recover depleted batteries and make them useable again.
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#3 |
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There's only one sure way. If you bike turns over reliably each and every time you try and start it then your battery is fine.
You can measure current drain when parked up to see if it's being drained by more than your alarm declares, you can measure charging voltage when it's running to make sure it's charging, you can plug a conditioner into it which will light up various healthy/not-healthy LEDs. All these things are good indicators but at the end of the day batteries are magical devices and they work when they want to. I've had batteries on several cars and bikes that test perfectly but still don't turn the car/bike over when needed. Swapped out the battery and all good. Your local battery shop will probably have a load tester. This will probably be for a car not a bike and if they sell batteries, will probably tell you that you need a new battery. If you charge it up, then disconnect the plug leads and turn the bike over you'll get a good idea if it's a strong battery or not (don't turn it over too long or you'll knacker the starter). Also if it's always flat when you get back to it try disconnecting the battery and see if it still goes flat on it's own. Often a slightly iffy battery gets very iffy when cold and will just loose charge of it's own accord. In general, invest in a trickle charger and leave it plugged in which should deal with the alarm draining it and general other mystical little discharge issues. If it usually starts when you need it to (both at home and at work) then leave it at that. If not then you need to start investigating what's draining the battery by a process of elimination or see if you can swap batteries with someone else to eliminate the battery itself.
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#4 |
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Very helpful. I was looking into getting one of them indicator things, but I'm going to see if it starts to live when I start going out on it. Haven't ridden it properly yet and the previous owner (who was very honest) has stated the battery was/is fine...
If the battery is low, how long should you leave it on Tickover to charge it fully?
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#5 |
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You have no need to leave a modern bike on idle, in fact it's one of the things to avoid, get on it and ride it, with normal riding your alternator will put out at least 14v, more than enough for charging purposes (basically ride it for 15 minute to insure a decent charge).
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#6 |
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Ah right awesome.
I was wondering about idle because I can't actually ride it yet due to insurance reasons :/
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#7 |
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Oh and the starter button shouldn't be depressed for more than 10 second at a time or you risk damage.
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#8 |
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Oh yeh fudge that. I never do
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#9 | |
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A colleague has lent me an Optimate 4 which looks a very clever piece of kit - or rather I should say it looks like it does more than trickle charge. ![]() |
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#10 |
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indeed an optimate is one of the "smart" chargers, it will asses the battery condition and charge accordingly, once fully charged it will trickle charge for a time then run a complete cycle (discharge & recharge), this is the best way to maintain your battery as it simulates what would happen when riding.
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