K6 pointy running fine... then no power

I've been commuting with my sv daily for the past 6 months or so with no problems, but the other day it just died, and turning the key now does nothing (no dash lights, headlight etc.). I could get a very weak parking light and that was it.

It was a hot day and I'd been turning my bike on and off trying to find a space to park so it was maybe running a bit hot, but as I say this is quite out of the blue and the bike's only done ~5k miles.

I checked all the fuses (including the 30A) and they're all intact, I charged the battery, and today I was looking at the "Green connector" and other ignition plugs that might have melted but everything looks fine (though I couldn't really get to it even with the air box out).

Any more things I can look at before I pay a garage some silly amount? (I don't have a multimeter unfortunately)

[Bibio]

battery condition.

you really need to find out if the battery is holding a charge. the other thing is the ignition. when you say parking light is this when you turn the key to park?

one test you could try is turn the bike on and wiggle the right hand side wires next to the headstock if the dash goes on and off then it's the green connector.

Hi Bibio, cheers for the help.

My crappy Oxford Oximiser reckoned the battery was in good shape before the charge (dunno how meaningful their lights are) and seemed to charge ok. Guess I need a multimeter to test it under load? I'll try get hold of one.

Yeah it was when I turned the key to park, and even then it was sketchy. I'll try those wires tomorrow

[Shawthing]

Realy does sound like 'Green connector' failure.
If you get the airbox lower disconnected from the throtle bodies and push it back towards the rear of the bike you should get enough access.
if i remember rightly the green connector is mounted on a bracket and slides either up or down off it before you can get it apart.
If internal contacts or connector body areburned up you will have the dificult decision as to how best to remedy.
Not wanting two keys and damage on the loom connector meant i ended up soldering and heatshrinking the ignition barrel wires direct to the loom.
Or you may just feel that a contact clean, or fitting a connector bypass wire , or replacement hermeticaly sealed connector is best .

Was a pain to get to but I did have another look today, maybe a couple of small scorch marks on the outside plastic but it didn't look fried, not really sure. Wires going in/out seemed fine and jiggling things around didn't help.

Q: How is it meant to come apart, just those little tabs? Maybe the fact it didn't want to budge is a bad sign...

[Shawthing]

Lift the one tab, as shown, and pull apart:

Ah great cheers