You dont need a torque wrench. Just do it up very tight.

If you do need one, then i have a draper 10-80nm which serves the purpose, as on the Curvey SV the rear nut only needs to be done up to 65nm

i've never used a torque wrench to adjust my chain, i've done it plenty of times, i'd be tempted to agree with Viney, just make sure its done up nice and tight.

In my experience, the correct torque for the rear axle conincides exactly with the breaking strain of the spanner from the bike tool kit that fits it.

That's handy :) I was kind of amazed to hear anyone can undo that bolt with the standard toolkit...

Wasnt easy i must admit, and didnt do the nut much good :/ The spanner broke (the ring split) when putting it back on, i got worried and took it to a mate's workshop and checked, 98NM accoding to his wrench. Does make you wonder exactly why they supply you with a spanner that size, given that they made a decision to use plasticine as the metal of choice.

Not happy about doing it by feel. Alright if you've been fettling for years, but the temptation to just do it a bit more could mean the wheel bearings are under additional load, or under-tightened with potentially fatal consequences.
For the relatively small cost, and the fact that if it's treated carefully a torque wrench will last for years, it's a worthwhile investment. Plus aren't those pointy swingarms liable to bow under excess force?

There is no load on the wheel bearings from tightening up the axle, you cannot damage bike wheel bearings by overtightening the axle.
The ball race setup in a bike wheel is different to the taper roller bearings on many car hubs where the retaining nut does adjust the play in the bearings.

I have 2 torque wrenches in my tool box but they are probably the least used tools I own. Apart from head gaskets I prefer just to tighten things up by feel. Bike forums are full of posts from upset owners who have just snapped bolts (cam cap bolts seem to be a favourite) while trying to tighten them up to the factory torque setting.

cheers

Stewart

I'd agree with that.I guesstimate most of the torque figures.The rear axle nut gets done with a fifteen inch bar until it feels tight.I do regularly check bolts to make sure they are not dropping off though.

Think you'll find it's a 24mm nut.

In the US of course, the SV wheel nut is two swithens less than 13/16s of a sparrow hawk foot.

You and your silly metric systems. It will never catch on. :roll: