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rear shock change
I was always under the impression that a shock of a gsxr would be an upgrade for me on my sv.... but looking at this list below then only one or two would benifit my needs.... basically if i want to stiffen the ride up from the stock sv shock i need to select something below the 2nd gen shock...
Or am i getting something totally wrong. Sorry if this sounds dumb but i am still learning with all this stuff. YEAR MOTORCYCLE LENGTH SPRING ===== ========= ===== ===== 01-03 GSXR600 325.5mm 325# 96-99 GSXR750 345mm 375# 97-00 GSXR600 375mm 375# 00-03 GSXR750 325mm 400# 04 GSXR750 332.5mm 408# 04 GSXR600 332.5mm 425# 01-02 GSXR1000 329.5mm 430# 03-04 SV650 330mm 430# <<<==== stock 2nd gen... 05 GSX-R 1000 332.5mm 450# 03-04 GSXR1000 332.5mm 480# 99-02 SV650 337mm 510# <<<====stock 1st gen 04-07 ZX10R 338mm 540# 03-04 ZX6R(636) 340mm 540# 99-03 GSXR1300(Busa) 330mm 700# Dave |
Re: rear shock change
......?
I just bought an Ohlins, but that was when I had money. |
Re: rear shock change
no. the 1st-2nd gen are there only as a reference to original.
just pick the shock from the list that best fits your needs. if the seat hight is to low fit a longer length shock, to tall fit a lower length shock. if you are a pie eater then fit a stiffer spring, a lettuce muncher fit a softer spring. strange, i added an 08 gsxr1000 shock to the list specifically coz it suits short ppl but it seems to have disappeared... |
Re: rear shock change
Fitting a GSX-R shock (or similar replacement shock) does two things.
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Being somewhere the wrong side of 18st plus a heavy set of leathers and armour plus regular small but significant luggage, occasional pillion, I really feel my 25k miles original shock is on it's last legs. Got a lower mileage replacement original SV shock to do soon, but sounds like I need something much beefier. Did I read somewhere that a Hayabusa shock is a good choice for the huskier gentleman? Easy to fit?
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Ask badger how he went on with his GSXR1000 shock. I seem to remember fitting a GSXR1000 K5 one for paul the 6th which might be about right too.
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I bought a K3 or K4 GSXR1000 shock from Flymo , shock gave a tad more height than normal and I weigh 17stone and it has coped admirably with pillions and luggage as well . I have not changed a single setting from the ones Flymo had it set to . All you need to do is buy the bottom GSXR bolt and you are good to go . Some people may also need to cut a little bit out of the bottom of the battery box on some models to give the top of the reservoir a bit of room . All in all it should take you about an hour to hour and a half to do :)
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If you can get to me Dave , I have an Abba stand and plenty`o`tools here and can give you a hand ........... well , you make the Tea and I`ll fit it ;)
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Why not upgrade to a curvy 1st generation shock? ;)
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Because anything off a Curvy would give a Pointy AIDS
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Ignore him, the curvy has the expensive frame the pointy has the cheap mass produced one. He's just jealous.
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In terms of shocks. I recently bought a ZX10 shock, but am yet to fit it.
I did however, with the help of Spiers, change my knackered standard curvy shock for a similar but far lower mileage equivalent. The difference was immense. It was much firmer then even the old one before it started to leak... Looking forward to finally fitting the ZX-10 shock to hopefully see yet further improvements. :D |
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I like my hagon currently, it's better than any OE shock I've had, that includes the brand new one I got off fleabay a few years back.
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Plus you probably know as much as me anyway. |
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Just PM'd you Paiste regarding shock settings.
Binky what are you not doing at work? |
Re: rear shock change
Cheers guys, will get the low mileage original SV shock in, then maybe save up for a GSXR front end and rear shock. Any thoughts on how much a complete GSXR front might cost? Or do I need to start hanging around bike cafes with my swiss army knife, hope no-one notices me fiddling with their forks? Ooer mrs...
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Re: rear shock change
Cheers for the help chaps... And badger.. i may well take you up on that off whent he time comes!
Dave |
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nice one!!
Dave |
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Seriously though, this is one of those jobs that is made 100 times easier with the correct tools, the Abba stand is just the job. |
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Ont eh table on the first page, what do the numbers on the "Spring" column mean? Im presuming spring stiffness but can someone please confirm.
Im after a replacement shock for my K3 which is still on its original unit. At about 15 stone, then plus leathers etc, what would you recommend? I need options!! Cheers peeps |
Re: rear shock change
the numbers like #510 etc. are spring rates in pounds per inch of compression AFAIK.
Gixxer thou one probably a good bet for you. Not sure how different the K3 subframe is with regards the reservoir as I haven't done one. Can't see it being too different to the K4 onward. |
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So basically, the bigger the number, the more pies you can eat??
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With the k3 having a higher rear subframe i "think" that the only difference is there is slightly more space... But only slightly. And that box with the tool kit aint there! Dave |
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Would something with a stiffer spring than the GSXR1000 be better though? On the table, the standard SV shock is 430# and the Gixxer shock is only 50 higher at 480#. Will that make much difference really?
Also, if the GSXR1000 shock IS the one to go for, what year is best, or does that boil down to preference of spring stiffness? |
Re: rear shock change
It is a vast difference in the way the bike handles , it is also not down to just the spring on the shock , it can be down to how the internals work and how it is valved etc , A standard GSXR1000 k4 shock beats the cack out of the SV one by a Golden mile .
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I've been fitting a K4 750 Gixer shock to my K4 SV tonight and after 3.5 hours I'm still not finished. Granted I did have all the rear shock linkage off to clean and re-grease the bearings. The pain in the backside bit is removing the undertray so that you can make a decent job of trimming it to clear the new shock. Now all that remains to be done is to figure out how to support the battery to stop it resting on the shock reservoir and then how to get the seat re-fitted now that the battery sits higher up. Has anyone had to cut plastic from the underside of the seat? Battery could go on it's side I suppose, but the ECU would need resiting then. |
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no. you just need to cut down the foam block... |
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http://i162.photobucket.com/albums/t...kSwapChart.jpg |
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On this note, does anyone know of where to get reconditioned units??
I'm after getting a cheap as chips shock for the CBR400. I know you can swap them for a CBR600 shock which would give you a remote reservoir but then you have to cut a notch from the shock linkage to access one of the adjusters and move the coolant bottle up past the headstock racing styleee to accomodate for the remote adjuster. But thought that someone must do a nice aftermarket shock for the CBR that just slots straight in. So I want a camels conkers shock for about £50 ; ) |
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can you upgrade a curvy with one of these listed shock without having to cut back the battery box?
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I don't think so. Well, some people have done outlandish relocations, bending the box downwards instead, but it's really not a better solution. But don't worry, the cut is really pretty trivial
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Finished my installation, apart from reconnecting the battery. I made an aluminium strap which goes under the battery and holds it a few millimetres above the shocks reservoir. The strap is pop-rivetted to the subframe. The battery now sits high enough to not only require the foam block to be removed from the underside of the seat, but I also had to hacksaw the two rectangular lumps off the bottom of the seat.
Hopefully should get out for a test ride over the next couple of days. |
Re: rear shock change
Don't really fancy cutting it about to fit a new shock! :(
Any alternative? |
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