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2007 Oxford Hot Grips
Chaps,
I made a purchase of the lastest Oxford Hot Grips cos the ones i had (previous Oxford Hot Grips with the turny nob) died - well, the control button to adjust the temperature stopped switching on and off! The new ones are more sexy with LED's and stuff...... but... ...i installed the new control module as it was just a case of unplugging old one and plugging in new one but the damn things switches off when you are idling, ie, at the traffic lights! and they dont switch back on when you start moving.... anyone know if there is a way to by-pass this, otherwise these badboys are useless to me as my journey is stop start stop start to work :( Thanks all! yans. |
Where is your controller wired into?
IIRC, they're designed to cut the power after the ignition dies, so they should have no knowledge of engine speed! |
Wow, oxford don't seem to have a good track record do they!
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they are wired into the spare fuse in the fuse box...... exactly as the previous ones were and they worked a treat...
... i think these one are far more intelligent and do sense current or something and check whether revs are being applied by the amount of current running through them.... getting a bit out of my depth here! these things are too intelligent which to be honest, i dont need!!! |
If it's wired to the fuse box, it takes positive from the same place as mine. Namely, the ignition.
Where is it grounded to? The ignition circuit doesn't give a hoot about engine speed, so I can't see the positive wire affecting things. Maybe they're getting too hot & cutting out? They are more advanced than the older ones, but not by much, and I wouldn't trust that low battery cut off they have, even if it worked properly! |
Re: 2007 Oxford Hot Grips
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Hum. I'm thinking it could be to do with the charging system. The grips can't sense revs, but if there's something monitoring battery status then that's got the capacity to tell when the charge drops- and the bike will produce less power at idle than at revs. It shouldn't really make a difference, but maybe if your charging system's not 100% the voltage would drop far enough to set the box off.
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Stands to reason to me. I was actually thinking along similar lines, but only if the grips are grounded to the battery, as opposed the frame. Charge variations could come into account that way if combined with a dodgy earth in a number of places. |
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quote] i would think so? |
thank you all for your thoughts.
i have contacted the shop i bought them from and they are going to speak with their Product Manager at Oxford and get back to me. As I said, the previous model of these grips (on/off turny knob) worked perfectly - this model definately has some form of sensing (not sure what) inside the control unit that is quite frankly OTT! a colleague at work says his original honda heated grips switch off at idle but kick back in when revs are up again (or a higher voltage is detecting due to charging)! ah, the whoes of being a panzy on these cold mornings! thanks again all - keep the thoughts coming in! i will keep you posted as to the Product Managers views. |
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my prob is not enough heat ...........im in trial & error mode at the moment, i have tried bypassing the switch & they are the same, so i have borrowed the old dail type controller but cant see it helping if they were the same without a switch
so mybe the newer grips are crap?? |
Yans- I'd do what Hovis did if I was you, bypass the box. If it's not too hot for you, then just replace it with a switch. You shouldn't have to, but it's always good to simplify electrical parts in general, and there's no point in having a wee box of magic if it just causes problems...
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just swapped the new box for the old one ....left ticking over on full power for 10 mins & it is the same??
what next??? as i have said mybe the newer grips are not as good? |
thanks again everyone..... still waiting for Product Manager response..... but quite simply, these new grips, well, the control module, does too much thinking.... its thinking about my battery, which is very nice of them, but i dont want it to look after my battery, i can do that on my own!!!!!!!
on these cold mornings i want HEAT! stopped at traffic lights or not!! the previous module did get very very hot just to bypass it totally..... not sure about the new ones as they have never been on long enough to actually get hot!!!! what a dilema! |
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If you're worried about a straight through wire arrangement, stick a mini-potentiometer in-line as well. Variable resistor you can control, which is basically all the older box was. Except that had a switch. My current setup goes from fusebox, to a missile style switch, to a 1M mini-pot, to the grips then back to ground. Easy peasy. |
yan,
how hot do they get when they are on? |
pinky,
i couldn't tell you as i haven't sat on the bike revving it long enough to find out!! i have a Carbon Can Company end can so would **** the neighbours off too much!!!! if the heat is determind by the control module then i dont know.... if the heat is determind by the grips themselves then they get too hot to handle (when the old style control module worked)! too hot to bypass a variable switch! all this has arised because the original ccontrol module (turny knob) would not switch on... when you press down on the knob to switch them on there was no definate click.... i might just be able to open the switch up and rectify it, it could be a srpint inside it or something????? then i could send these new all singing all dancing ones back!!!!!!! sometimes, old school is better than new!! not very often mind! |
i think either the new grips are crap
OR MY new grips are crap but as not many peeps have the new ones i cant compare them |
Hmm... Bring it over Hovi5, I want to see if they compare with mine :) I've never been convinced mine are right either, they never get all that hot. Think I'm going to get heated gloves, maybe.
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i phoned Oxford & the nice lady said " i dont know..i will get sombody to phone you back"
still waiting :evil: |
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I just got a new pair of the old ones... Asked the nice man in Hein Gericke if he had any, he asks why. Because the new one seems not to work too well with SVs, I say. Funny, someone else said that too.
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i have the L.E.D. type controll box & the dial one i have the new grips......but got some old ones coming if i cant sort somthing out with all this......i give up |
My old ones have gone a bit wobbly, and at £30 for a new set frankly I can't be bothered to troubleshoot them :) They're showing their age anyway. So I'll see if these new ones are actually hotter.
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how can you tell the differance?
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Mine are 2nd generation. Basically, 1st time out, they found out that the grips aren't effective on some bikes, so they changed the wiring INSIDE the grip (the one that gets hot) to counter the problem of heat dissipation through the bars instead of into the hands. 2nd time around was when this was introduced. 3rd time, the controller changed, but the grips seem to of gone back to 1st gen (perhaps). Hovi5, haven't had chance to get them off today, wont tomorrow either, but might be able to next weekend. |
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its ok
im in no rush :wink: |
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IIRC, the main issue was the metal used in the bars/clipons letting the heat out. Heatshield would help, and I know my left hand was always colder than my right (mainly due to doing bugger all). But I have taken 2 apart with a craft knife & found different wiring on the inside. |
Eenteresting, cheers.
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Ah, bunch of fairys :takeabow: :lol:
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Looks like I'll be commuting on snow on monday, I'll take any edge I can get :)
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My grips are disconnected ready for organ donor transplant to hovi5.
Bring on the snow! :D |
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