FI Light, but no code

My SV (pointy) has been giving me an FI light occasionally when I go to start it. Turn the ignition off, put it back on and it goes away. Sometimes it will drop cylinder and show FI while I'm riding but it will normally disappear within 10 seconds and I'm back up and running.

I have tried a few times to get the code out but every time I check it's C00.

Today the bike dropped to 1 cylinder for about 4 miles so I nursed it home hoping to get the wire on will the fault was still there. Unfortunately it went away again about a mile from home. When I got home I left it running and shorted the dealer connector as I had read leaving it running would keep the code, but still C00.

Any suggestions or is the best thing to do permanently jump the dealer pins so next time it happens I can see the code? Will this put me in any kind of 'limp' mode?

I'm guessing it could be a poor connection somewhere but having the code to to give me an idea where would be great!

Thanks,
Jynx

Of no help at all to you but oddly I have had the FI pop up twice this week. Dry conditions on last two rides and only recent adjustments were new plugs and TPS adjustment which (initially at least) really improved general smoothness.

As you describe, it is when starting - turning the key back off then on again seems to have cleared it and I've ridden off without further issue both times. I haven't had any cylinder drops but have noticed a bit of a flat spot, stutter at low revs - generally around 4000rpm when throttle is only just open. I did recheck TPS in case it had shifted but it seemed to still be ok.

Oh, and today the oil pressure light was flashing, don't think it did the first time but maybe it did...?

Haven't had the opportunity to check codes yet (as the FI has gone away) but would like to avoid a roadside conk-out. The wisdom o' the forum would be welcome...

Maybe you've done this, I wasn't so clear from your post (maybe it the alcohol I have consumed ) but I accessed dealer mode by turning off the ignition, applying the 'special tool', then turning the ignition on to see the code.

But some suggest C00 code is no fault, which could indicate a battery issue or Reg/Rec. So maybe check battery voltage then condition of Reg/Rec, which is a fairly easy job.

[Bibio]

FI can be thrown up for all manner of reasons from loose connectors to lambda sensors.

turning the bike on and off will indeed clear the code but as far as i'm aware the CDI keeps a list which is only accessible with the OBD.

if you have recently done something then you have disturbed something so best go back and trace your steps and go over your work.

there is no limp mode on the SV.

Oh, when i said the only things i'd done were plugs and tps... I also fitted a tail tidy so probably fannied around with half the rear electrics! Oh, to be a s.p.a.s. and not a t.i.t.

And sorry for thread hijacking too!

[Sid Squid]

It may be a fault, it may be something entirely spurious. Jumping the pins to display the code will not make it run badly or cause a 'limp mode'. Obviously if you do so, the engine temperature will not be displayed, probably best to keep an ear out for the fan as this is operated completely independently to the FI and ignition systems.
There are several 'limp modes' built into the ECU, (the SV does not have CDI), and it is possible for a fault to occur, the relevant fall back setting to be used by the system and for there to be no obvious difference in the way it runs, particularly so if it is an intermittent sensor fault, which aren't common - usually a failure is permanent - but can happen.

[Sid Squid]

Forgot to say: If you're sure only one cylinder cuts then there are several things that won't be the problem as they are common to both cylinders, such as the various temperature, pressure and position sensors, and similarly there are several bits which are specific to each cylinder; injector, coil etc.

Thanks for all the replies and np about the hijack sputnik, we all need working bikes!

So I put the bike back together this morning with a permanent jump in the dealer connector. The Gods must have been smiling on me because within 5 minutes of my journey the bike dropped a cylinder - and I HAVE A CODE! Quick flick of the kill switch and a restart of the engine and she ran on both all the way to work.

So a quick Google for the code (C24) and I'm led straight to Sid being helpful last year to someone with the same fault http://forums.sv650.org/showthread.php?t=166610

So I now know which cylinder and which component, guess it's just a case of checking each connector for it and giving them a clean. If that doesn't help I'll try to get another coil to try.

Leaving for a trip round Euro this time next month so I guess I better sort it sooner rather than later!

[flymo]

Exactly what I was going to suggest, a dodgy coil connection. They are just push on blade connectors and they corrode. When I first bought my SV650 as a 'non-runner' I had exactly the same issue as it was stored outside, cleaned the connectors and the engine was running before I left the seller's house