rear brake pins siezed - what now

HI,
Just went to do the '15 min' job of changing rear brake pads and cannot get the retaining pins out. Used pentrtng oil and tried to get them started to no effect - just put on more P oil and left it for a while. Cannot drive them out from the rear unless I split the caliper. If I have to do that what should I look out for? And will I need to replace any gaskets/seals etc?
Thanks
John

[timwilky]

Welcome to the world of SV rear calipers.

If they have had a good soak in penetrating oil. (and not squirted with something like wd40) you may get away with gripping the pins with some small mole grips and twisting them 1/16th of a turn sufficient to be able to break the seize.

Splitting the caliper then means an expensive seal kit as there is a small oring to seal between the two halves. But chances are your piston seals are likely to be knackered anyway as well. normal problems like dust seals sticking to the piston etc.

Most people try to avoid splitting the caliper by attempting to drill a small hole behind the pin to get more penetrating oil in and then to use a pin punch to knock out the offending pin.

PM rictus01.

He sorted mine with the Mark mod!!

Originally Posted by timwilky

Welcome to the world of SV rear calipers.

If they have had a good soak in penetrating oil. (and not squirted with something like wd40) you may get away with gripping the pins with some small mole grips and twisting them 1/16th of a turn sufficient to be able to break the seize.

Splitting the caliper then means an expensive seal kit as there is a small oring to seal between the two halves. But chances are your piston seals are likely to be knackered anyway as well. normal problems like dust seals sticking to the piston etc.

Most people try to avoid splitting the caliper by attempting to drill a small hole behind the pin to get more penetrating oil in and then to use a pin punch to knock out the offending pin.

Thanks for info.

Is PlusGas the stuff to use? I did use some penetrating oil from Wilkes but that seems to be on par with WD40. Anyway, my plumber's wrench wouldn't budge the pins at all.

Looking at the caliper diagram(K1 curvy) it seems as though if I don't intend disturbing the pistons I can just split the caliper and replace the o ring caliper seal. Is that not the case?

Can't say I fancy drilling the caliper;knowing my luck I will end up rogering it ..

John

ps who is Mark? (He who did Mark's Mod)

[timwilky]

yes, plus gas is the right stuff.

if you can get some thin nose mole grips on the pins and squeezed that tight you think they are going to deform the jaws. Try rocking side to side to try and break the seize. you are going to need new pins anyway.


If you have to split the caliper, you cannot just buy the little o-ring you need the full kit which is expensive.


I ended up spitting the caliper. properly locating it under my pillar drill and drilling out the one pin that I could not break free. That way I maintained the blind hole. when refitting, the pins and hole got a good coating with copper grease and ever service there after the pins were removed and regreased. Only 2 minutes to remove the pins. but a real time saver when you need to replace the pads. I know of some sv owners who having learned the lesson the hard way. Copper greased the pins on brand new bikes

[northwind]

You can reuse the wee o-ring inside if it's in good shape, though. Me, I bought a newer caliper and some stainless steel retaining pins, if you shop carefully you can get a decent caliper with a set of pads and the nicer torque arm off a TL or SRAD for about £25. If you don't shop carefully though, you can end up with another rusty one

Originally Posted by northwind

You can reuse the wee o-ring inside if it's in good shape, though. Me, I bought a newer caliper and some stainless steel retaining pins, if you shop carefully you can get a decent caliper with a set of pads and the nicer torque arm off a TL or SRAD for about £25. If you don't shop carefully though, you can end up with another rusty one

The actual caliper is good - only done 11k and 4 of those were dead dry since October with me. Looks like its just the pins. I'm really ****ed about it. Seems like such bad design - material wise. Anyway I have put it back on cos I got bikesafe this weekend.

[Sid Squid]

Originally Posted by timwilky

If you have to split the caliper, you cannot just buy the little o-ring you need the full kit which is expensive.

Yes you can.

Bizarrely if you ask for this bit for an SV it's only available as part of the seal kit, but if you ask for the same bit for other Suzukis it can be got separately.

I'll find the part number and post it up.

Originally Posted by Sid Squid

Yes you can.

Bizarrely if you ask for this bit for an SV it's only available as part of the seal kit, but if you ask for the same bit for other Suzukis it can be got separately.

I'll find the part number and post it up.

Thanks Sid S

If you maintain your calibers, that won't happen

I have found that by the time you get done messing around with them, if your time is worth anything, buying a new caliper is cheaper