Not running well now

[5hort5]

Next problem, the bike starts fine and idles fine but a small bit of throttle it wil rev to say 3k rpm then drops back and stalls (whilst throttle is held v slightly open). This is just sat in my garage by the way. I let it warm up on idle and tried again and it does the same thing. Tried it about 6 times and each time when a small (or large) amount of throttle is applied it dies. when I ran it last for a full outing on Monday it worked fine. Stuff done to it this weekend:

new plugs (gapped correctly - both cylinders firing normally at idle)
New oil filer and new oil
New air filter
Fixed o ring leak on clutch cover
Popped some red x in the tank

So, no oil leaks, seems to run ok on idle and idled for a good couple of mins with no probs at 1k rpm , and I also tried removing the air filter and tried without just to see if that was the problem and it wasn't.

I've had the tank on it's stand to do the air filter etc. Does this problem sound like dirt n crap in the fuel line/tap or the carb or does it sound like something else?

Thanks

not trapped fuel line under the tank?

[5hort5]

nope afraid not, wish it was tbh, I lifted the tank to take the filter out and run it like that then check the line from the tank to make sure I hadn't trapped it and it was free

[Biker Biggles]

It will be to do with what you have altered.The plugs---Are they duff?Try putting the old ones back in to check.
The air filter.Have you dislodged the airbox where it seats,or allowed an air leak somewhere?Will it run if you take the new filter off?
The Redex.Why did you need to put that in?And could be that you have poured some **** in the tank?If the above fails drain the fuel and use fresh stuff.

[yorkie_chris]

Presume it's a curvy, water in the fuel could cause this. The main jet is in the bottom of the float bowl, the slow jet at the top, fuel floats on water so as you blip it and it tries to transition to the needle circuit it sucks no fuel just water.

[5hort5]

ok, thanks for the tips BB and YC. I'll double check the stuff I did today next weekend and if not I'll have a go at the carbs. Is these reasonably simple yorkie chris, something that a novice could do or is it worth taking it to a pro. (preferably something I can do, sounds fun but I don't want to get into deep).

One other thing, why not red x? I tend to use red x for a bit with a new second hand bike and in the past it has always made them run better. I only use it for a month or so but its seemed to have always helped clean and smooth things out. Is this a bad idea to use it then Biggles?

[yorkie_chris]

Redex can only mask problems. Better to solve them properly.
I would only use additive if I know exactly what it is doing, eg Propan-2-ol for carb icing, methanol or TEL for octane etc.

To get water out just open screws at bottom of carb, you need long allen key and thin fingers.

[5hort5]

Thanks YC, that should easier than getting back at the front plug again so that's been promoted to the first thing to try on the list.

[5hort5]

Been looking at my Haynes manual but from the pics I can't work out where the drain screws are for the carbs for Saturday and I have no real light in the evenings to have a good view. Can anyone give me a few hints so I don't unscrew the swing arm by mistake

Is it more than one screw (one on each maybe?)
Near or off side of the bike?
And if you have a picture with a big arrow that would be vey much appreciated.

Thanks - an inept 5hort5

[Spanner Man]

Good morning all.


The drain screws are located at the bottom of the carburetors. They have a 5mm allen head, & are best accessed from the right hand side of the bike.
Ideally, due to the angle at which they sit, you need a long 5mm ball ended allen key to undo them, a small torch helps here, even in broad daylight.
They are effectively between the carburetors, so are fairly close to each other.
The front drain screw is often obscured by some pipes, & one of the joining brackets that hold the carbs together.


Cheers.