Beginner's Clutch Problem.

Hey Peeps!

New to motorcycling and this forum. I've had my '99 650S a couple of months now, she's FANTASTIC....apart from a little problem I'm having with the clutch!

I'll try my best to describe it. When riding slow for tight corners on the way to work I'm having to drag my rear brake to keep control, as the clutch is either ENGAGED or DISENGAGED. I.e. there is very little 'slip' (I've not fully got hang of lingo yet, so I hope you know what I mean! ) This isn't a problem when going faster.

Also wondering how long I should have to warm up the bike before a jolly - as it's taking 3 or 4 minutes with a fair bit of choke. If not, it cuts out sharpish.

Had a hard time finding this on the forum already.

Cheers all.

Sorry, to Add: Finding neutral can be a bit of a pain also! Hope this helps.

Welcome, another orger from Leeds, fantastic

This thread might help

http://forums.sv650.org/showthread.p...tch+adjustment

if not, try using the search funtion on the forum...

I'll wait for the experts but it could be worn clutch plates, which would explain the 'trouble finding neutral' aswell. Have you tried adjusting the clutch cable at all, as that should help? My bike takes ages to warm up and ALWAYS needs choke aswell - so I'll be interested in the answer from some of the geniuses on here

Oh and welcome to the forum

[TamSV]

Welcome to the site.

If the bikes pulling you on faster than you want to go with the throttle closed I'd suggest you're either in the wrong gear or the idle revs are set too high. What's the rev counter showing at tickover?

[TSM]

finding neutral issues: look at chain adjustment, oil level and clutch adjustment, when i stop bike personaly i dont bother finding N, just turn off the bike with it in 1st, gives added protection against bike roll

biting point: check clutch adjustment, also its possably you are not used to fine clutch yet, using rear brake is how you are taught to keep bike under control in slow movements which is fine.

warming up: choke on bike to start, give about 10-15 seconds and lower it down above which bike does not stall, go ride, bike will warm up far faster riding than idling plus you dont annoy neighbours

Thanks. All good points. I've got a service manual on order so I can check everything's as it should be. Oil level is Ok, but filter and oil could need changing? The filter unit is crusty and old looking.

RE biting point: I think I'll need to adjust the clutch. I can find the biting point no problem, but it seems 'narrow' if that makes sense..at least compared to the GS500 I learned on. To ride the clutch round corners I need to keep within, say, 1-2mm of play rather than the 10mm on the GS. Tricky!

Doesn't sound like the revs are too high, gears are fine. Tach is somehow linked to the regulator or something from an older bodge job, and doesn't show revs but charge to the battery (i.e. high normally but dropping when lights come on). Might sort that out sometime soon....

Originally Posted by sp07tjwh

Tach is somehow linked to the regulator or something from an older bodge job, and doesn't show revs but charge to the battery (i.e. high normally but dropping when lights come on). Might sort that out sometime soon....

[TamSV]

Originally Posted by hongman

That's what I thought.

DIY ammeter. Ingenious. Useful. Seems wrong though.

Probably the strangest "mod" I have read about tbh! Redlining is not quite the same now though...

If you've only just got the bike, have the worm gear apart and pack it with grease, give the general area a clean (watch those ickle balls!). If its crudded with crap it'll feel sooo much better.