Shortening rear master cylinder stroke?

Is there any way of doing it?

I'm looking for half the peg travel I've got at the moment. I'd like to do it without moving the lever point.

Cheers, C

[fastdruid]

Change the master cylinder for one with a larger bore.

Druid

erm.. Is that Minitwin legal?

[fastdruid]

You tell me.

You could also extend the lever (where it connects to the M/C) and offset the M/C but that's way more grief.

Druid

"Front and rear master cylinders must remain as originally produced by the manufacturer for the homologated machine".

Nope

Maybe I can compress the cylinder somewhat before the stroke starts. So effectively it's already pre-depressed but not causing the pads to touch the disk? This is what I'm looking for. So the pads hit the disk sooner in the peg stroke.


C

[fastdruid]

I'd check to see if the curvy or pointy has a different M/C if you can exchange between years of SV.

Otherwise its extend the lever and offset the M/C, depending on your rearsets it may be easiest to do this by moving the lever pivot point.

Druid

How much movement have you got at the lever before the pads start touching? Might it be excessive pad knock-off or the seals causing the piston to retract too far into the caliper when the pedal is released? Worth a strip & rebuild with some silicone grease on the dust seal?

Can the rod be adjusted?
Braided hoses would firm up the feel.

Currently in Walkden, not Germany

Wear thicker insoles ?

[mikerj]

Originally Posted by Berlin

Maybe I can compress the cylinder somewhat before the stroke starts. So effectively it's already pre-depressed but not causing the pads to touch the disk? This is what I'm looking for. So the pads hit the disk sooner in the peg stroke.
C

This is a very bad idea. You will block the fluid return port by doing this, so as soon as the brake warms up a bit it will start binding. Then it will get hotter and start binding more until eventually it risks locks up.