fork seals - SV650.org

20-06-05, 06:59 PM

hey i changed me springs and oil the other week .. and ive noticed 1 of them seems to be leaking fork oil slightly!.. i think it was leakin a small amount before but it seems worse now...how long do fork seals usually last?

i did buy some fork seals and was going to change the at the same time but didnt really have time as it looked alot more involved. so decided id jus do the springs for now.

any ways im thinking i best change them now but how easy is it?.. do you have to take the damper rod and all that out to get to them?.. and im guessing ill have to buy some more fork oil or can you tip the old out and put it back in..

thanx for any advice

matt

Spanner Man · 26-06-05, 06:10 PM

Hello there
It isn't too bad a job to change the seals, although the damper rod bolt at the bottom of the leg can be a bugger to undo without the correct locking tool. You will need to get some more fork oil, as the stuff in there will be contaminated by all the sludge in the forks which will have mixed with the oil you've just put in.
Clean all the internals thoroughly before reassembling the legs.
If you have any problems feel free to give me a call on 01623 757887 daytime.

Cheers

Sid Squid · 26-06-05, 06:26 PM

On disassembling forks I said: this.

The only special tool you need to get the forks apart is a broom pole.

Spanner Man · 26-06-05, 06:38 PM

It isn't a broom pole it's special tool part no: 657834/99765498!! NO you're right it is indeed a broom pole

And it nearly always works unless the bolt is extremely tight..........I made myself a proper one out of metal so nar nar ne nar nar

Sid Squid · 26-06-05, 06:46 PM

Yeah I've made a couple for special occasions, ie when the sodding bolt won't come out

, but mostly the damper bolt moves half a turn then the damper rod spins, then the extra special factory broom pole* does the trick mostly.

*Part No 0945987567256: Very dear + VAT.

26-06-05, 06:49 PM

I was having a nightmare getting the damper bolt out today, shoved all sorts up there trying to get a grip

In the end it was a broom handle with a rubber glove on the top for such much needed traction!

26-06-05, 11:31 PM

thanx for the tips folks

it always helps to spk to some1 who knows wat there doing lol..i have a haynes manual for abit of guidance too .. and thanx for the phone number spannerman

it says you have to change the copper washer on the damper rod bolt . is this necessary? just so i know if to get some before i start the job

thanx

matt

northwind · 26-06-05, 11:40 PM

Maybe a better question is, is it worth cutting corners to save the 40p (IIRC) that the crush washers cost?

27-06-05, 09:44 AM

I would say it is

northwind · 27-06-05, 06:07 PM

Me too sometimes

Better question still then, is it worth all teh additional labour caused if you end up with a leaky seal and need to strip your forks again? Don't know how likely it is, mind.

20-06-05, 06:59 PM	#1
ruff_ryder Guest Posts: n/a	fork seals hey i changed me springs and oil the other week .. and ive noticed 1 of them seems to be leaking fork oil slightly!.. i think it was leakin a small amount before but it seems worse now...how long do fork seals usually last? i did buy some fork seals and was going to change the at the same time but didnt really have time as it looked alot more involved. so decided id jus do the springs for now. any ways im thinking i best change them now but how easy is it?.. do you have to take the damper rod and all that out to get to them?.. and im guessing ill have to buy some more fork oil or can you tip the old out and put it back in.. thanx for any advice matt

26-06-05, 06:10 PM	#2
Spanner Man Member Mega Poster Join Date: May 2005 Location: Sunbury Middlesex Posts: 1,396	Hello there It isn't too bad a job to change the seals, although the damper rod bolt at the bottom of the leg can be a bugger to undo without the correct locking tool. You will need to get some more fork oil, as the stuff in there will be contaminated by all the sludge in the forks which will have mixed with the oil you've just put in. Clean all the internals thoroughly before reassembling the legs. If you have any problems feel free to give me a call on 01623 757887 daytime. Cheers __________________ Spanner Man http://stewarts-motorcycles.co.uk/default.html

26-06-05, 06:26 PM	#3
Sid Squid No, I don't lend tools. Mega Poster Join Date: Jul 2003 Location: Skunk Works, Nth London Posts: 8,680	On disassembling forks I said: this. The only special tool you need to get the forks apart is a broom pole. __________________ If an SV650 has a flat tyre in the forest and no-one is there to blow it up, how long will it be 'til someone posts that the reg/rec is duff and the world will end unless a CBR unit is fitted? A little bit of knowledge = a dangerous thing. "a deathless anthem of nuclear-strength romantic angst"

26-06-05, 06:38 PM	#4
Spanner Man Member Mega Poster Join Date: May 2005 Location: Sunbury Middlesex Posts: 1,396	It isn't a broom pole it's special tool part no: 657834/99765498!! NO you're right it is indeed a broom pole And it nearly always works unless the bolt is extremely tight..........I made myself a proper one out of metal so nar nar ne nar nar __________________ Spanner Man http://stewarts-motorcycles.co.uk/default.html

26-06-05, 06:46 PM	#5
Sid Squid No, I don't lend tools. Mega Poster Join Date: Jul 2003 Location: Skunk Works, Nth London Posts: 8,680	Yeah I've made a couple for special occasions, ie when the sodding bolt won't come out , but mostly the damper bolt moves half a turn then the damper rod spins, then the extra special factory broom pole* does the trick mostly. *Part No 0945987567256: Very dear + VAT. __________________ If an SV650 has a flat tyre in the forest and no-one is there to blow it up, how long will it be 'til someone posts that the reg/rec is duff and the world will end unless a CBR unit is fitted? A little bit of knowledge = a dangerous thing. "a deathless anthem of nuclear-strength romantic angst"

26-06-05, 06:49 PM	#6
goof Guest Posts: n/a	I was having a nightmare getting the damper bolt out today, shoved all sorts up there trying to get a grip In the end it was a broom handle with a rubber glove on the top for such much needed traction!

26-06-05, 11:31 PM	#7
ruff_ryder Guest Posts: n/a	thanx for the tips folks it always helps to spk to some1 who knows wat there doing lol..i have a haynes manual for abit of guidance too .. and thanx for the phone number spannerman it says you have to change the copper washer on the damper rod bolt . is this necessary? just so i know if to get some before i start the job thanx matt

26-06-05, 11:40 PM	#8
northwind Moderator Mega Poster Join Date: Jan 2004 Location: In the garage where I belong Posts: 17,083	Maybe a better question is, is it worth cutting corners to save the 40p (IIRC) that the crush washers cost? __________________ "We are the angry mob, we read the papers every day We like what we like, we hate what we hate But we're oh so easily swayed"

27-06-05, 09:44 AM	#9
goof Guest Posts: n/a	I would say it is

27-06-05, 06:07 PM	#10
northwind Moderator Mega Poster Join Date: Jan 2004 Location: In the garage where I belong Posts: 17,083	Me too sometimes Better question still then, is it worth all teh additional labour caused if you end up with a leaky seal and need to strip your forks again? Don't know how likely it is, mind. __________________ "We are the angry mob, we read the papers every day We like what we like, we hate what we hate But we're oh so easily swayed"

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