Whoops binned it - help with repairs required

So, had my first 'proper' off today, just a low speed lowside courtesy of a patch of ice, I'm fine, as are my leathers, but the bike is a bit bent and looking decidedly second hand.

It was really nasty- I'm used to riding in ice and even snow, but this really shook my confidence (I'm not convinced that with that much ice, there would of been enough traction to allow stopping on the downhill section I almost got to, even if I'd been going even slower- I was only doing 10mph on the flat and straight as it was), even in the car, at the same patch I could feel the oversteer, despite taking it very easy.

Anyway, enough about the drop; Aside from a few bits of road rash that t-cut and a file have helped to hide, there were two mechanical problems. The RHS bar end and front indicator are completely wrecked. A quick trip to Hein Gericke provided me with a pair of new indicators (gotta have matching ones!) and Oxford bar ends (the normal anodised ally ones, not the tarts ones with carbon banding). However, neither seem to be simple 'whip out the old and slot in the new'.

With the bar ends, the whole attachment method doesn't work, the screws are far too short, etc. Do I need to get original screws from suzuki (the very long thin ones that only have the thread at the end opposite from the head), or is there another way of fitting them?

With the indicators, they seem to be screw in type ones, but looking at the rubber 'pivot' block on the stock ones (which presumably you keep) there's no way they'll go in. Also, am I right in thinking that I need to cut the old indicators wires and solder them to the new ones, retaining the grey connecting clips?

I have searched the site and the web to no avail, but if someone can point me in the direction of a "how to" for both/either jobs, it'd be much appreciated. If they're real pigs of a job, I may well do a bit of cash book maintenance and buy OE gear (I shudder to think how much the indicator will be), as I'd definately be comfortable fitting that.

As an aside, I took her out for a quick spin without the fairing/lights on. I've got to admit, I really liked the cafe racer feel- naked with clipons. I feel a project coming on

with indicators you will need a set of these
http://www.gingerparts.com/pages-pro...g-spacers.html

check that they fit your model as i think they may be different for the curvy/pointy.

bad luck, i was sliding all over the gaff tointe.

You will need to do something with the indicator wiring, you can use the old connector from your bust indicator, and Im sure someone on here has other spare ones as well

Youve got a faired one if I remember, the bolts for the faired model bar end weights are much longer than the unfaired ones, there should be a rubber bung at the end, so try and only unscrew the bolt enough so you can pull the entire thing out of the bar, if its a bit stiff you'll only undo the bolt, and leave the rubber bit in there... which is no good if youve now got shorter bolts,as they wont reach.

hope you get things fixed soon!

****

Bar ends: As long as the bolt for the new bar end isn't drasticaly shorter, it should all fit. The only thing holding the bar end in is a rubber bung that gets squashed when you tighten it up. Loosen the bar end a little and pull on it. This should pull the bung through to give you more room and stop the bar end acting as cruise control

(If my poor description confuses you, check the workshop manual, it's got an exploded diagram of the handle bars.)

Unlucky mate.

Just fitted new bar ends like yours. All you have to do is screw the new bar ends assembly together BEFORE inserting the end into the handlebar. The nut will force the rubber bit to extract and hence making a tight fit so you can then tap the whole lot in with the palm of your hand and tighten it up. I removed the old rubber from inside the handlebar by using the old bolt and some pliers. It is so easy and just remember you do not need to use the old bits at all.

[Skip]

Sorry to hear about your spill...

You could always try Suzuki for the indicators, my mate bought two new ones for his Ducati Monster from the Sucati main dealer and they were only £7 each or something equally as cheap! Worth a go!

[JediGoat]

Originally Posted by Ceri JC

I shudder to think how much the indicator will be

£29 for a K4 indicator. Seeing as I bought one a couple of weeks back after doing a similar thing

Jo

Sorry to hear this Ceri, so glad you're okay and a great shame about the bike.


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Originally Posted by shop_addict

£29 for a K4 indicator. Seeing as I bought one a couple of weeks back after doing a similar thing

Jo

Thanks for that, I think I'll bite the bullet and get one (If Hein Gericke let me return the other ones, it'll only be £14 more). I'll butcher the wiring out of the old one so I'll have a spare connector in future. When you bought it, how much of the indicator did it include, just the hard plastic bit with the bulb and wiring, or the whole thing including the rubber stalk it's mounted on?

Many thanks for the kind words of condolence and advice folks. I'm feeling a bit more positive about it today and she'll be back on the road soon

A quick query for Flamin_Squirrel, Valleysboy and TC3 re: the bar ends. You all mention removing the rubber bung already in there. Do you mean the one at the outer edge of the bar, or is there one wedged deep inside that the original screw goes through?

[JediGoat]

Originally Posted by Ceri JC

When you bought it, how much of the indicator did it include, just the hard plastic bit with the bulb and wiring, or the whole thing including the rubber stalk it's mounted on?

Not sure because I called out The Cavalry (motorbike roadside assistance company based in London), and they collected the bike, fetched the spares from a local Suzuki spares dealer, then took it to a local garage for the repairs. I only saw the bike again when it had been fixed (I would have accompanied it, but seeing as I locked myself out of my house when the van turned up, I had other priorities )

I'd broken the plastic housing and bulb, so I'm not sure whether it was just those bits that were replaced, or the whole thing.

Sorry I can't be of more help.

Jo -> not always dopey, honestly