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#1 |
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I've read that when a chain stretches, it's because the joints between the links are becoming worn, meaning that the links can pull apart more because they are "loose" (makes sense to me).
So what makes a chain wear faster when it isn't oiled? Presumably it's because the oil lubricates the surfaces in the joints of the links, so they don't become loose so quickly? Can anyone confirm? |
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#2 |
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Each link is packed with grease when new,and then sealed with the O rings you can see between the side plates and the rollers.The oil is mainly put on to keep the O rings from drying out and failing,thus letting the grease escape and thus pop goes the link pivot.That's why it is important to always keep a bit of oil on the chain.
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#3 |
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Ah, thanks. That's one reason I asked, because I thought the joints were sealed by the O rings - which it would seem they are from your explanation.
But it does leave an interesting question - does that mean that if at any point you fail to oil the chain and the O rings dry out, thus releasing the grease...your chain is then on a downward slope? Because surely even oiling it again, the grease is gone from the link joint, and so it will start to wear? Also when a chain wears out normally, is that simply because although there is grease, the chain still wears to a degree, and it's simply the case that it has worn excessively? If so, what is it that makes a worn chain stretch regularly (that's one of the signs, right, that it needs very regular adjustment)? |
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#4 |
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#5 |
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Thanks, that's a pretty interesting article.
It seems to suggest to me that the reason a chain on its way out needs regular adjustment, is that the lack of grease in the joints means wear is inevitable every time the chain is used - hence it just wears more and more and more, and often needs adjustment. It also suggests that the reason a chain "dies" is that eventually there comes a point where the rider doesn't oil it, or doesn't do it correctly, and then the chain starts to go. That's supported by the statement that a correctly oiled and adjusted chain doesn't wear out at all. The other reason that occurred to me was that maybe some of the links happen to not get oiled enough (throughout its life) but I would have thought that one bad link would cause a lot of problems as it would wear through or something silly like that. So I'm not sure if that's a valid case or not. Does that sound accurate? |
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#6 |
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Slightly OT, but what's everyone's favourite chain lube?
I started with Wurth dry chain lube, and it was good but pricey, then I tried an aerosol can of a Castrol wax, which was a bit cheaper but it's a complete pita to clean off anywhere it gets flung to and has a not too appealing white colour to it. |
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#7 |
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Sort of what I wanted to get to, that
![]() The reason behind this thread was that the chain on my new bike needed adjusting after about 1300 miles or so, got fairly loose actually (for 1300 miles). I must admit I only oiled it about every 300 miles - I'd normally do it every week, i.e. approx 100 miles, but on my SV i adjusted the chain twice (the first time was immediately after I got it) in about 4500 miles. Also the chain lube I use is some stuff from Halfords, nothing great - it's very liquid compared to the stuff that was on the chain from the dealer, that stuff looked like the wax you refer to - it was much more solid and (bad description coming up) looked a little "webby" like if you touched it, it would stick to your fingers in wisps, like cobwebs. Also it was a pain to clean off - I polished it off, that works, but the chain lube I have from Halfords tends to wash off fine too. Also on the subject of how to adjust...my GSX-R is the same as the SV, 20-30mm play up/down in the middle of the bottom part of the chain...but, I wondered - is that distance measured from as far as you can possibly push the chain? Since I can just lift it up, and measure that distance (pushing it down I obviously have to push a little though). But I can also push it up, and it goes up further, so I'm not sure which is the best way to measure... |
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#8 | |
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#9 |
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The Wurth High Performance Dry chain lube was the best of the aerosols I tried.
Now I'm using engine oil applied with a paint brush. This seems to keep it clean as well as lubed. You do get a lot of fling at first, so I click it into gear and rev it up a bit while it's still on the stand to get rid of excess. Wipe the wheel down and you're good to go. All the aerosols seemed to turn to thick black filth pretty quickly. |
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#10 | |
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Very interesting, and he makes the point I have always thought, a tight chain is very bad. And judging by the recommended 13mm freeplay with chain at its tightest point in the suspension travel, the 30mm freeplay or so recommended by Suzuki with the rear suspension pretty much unloaded is too low - I tend to drape myself over the rear seat from the exhaust side and lean right over and check the chain tension - my weight forces the back end right down - OK if you are tall and heavy, but shorties may well end up on the floor ![]() Also his point about lubes re-enforces the argument for Scotoilers, and no this is not going to turn into yet anther post on the pros and cons of them ![]() |
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