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#1 |
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This is a very cheep skate question I know, but can anyone recoment a way/product that I can use to change the colour of my leathers. I bought them last summer for th eabsolute bargin price of ?20. Ispent ?10 on a stitching repair and then cleaned them up with baby wipes. They are a perfect fit and very comfy (Fieldsheer?). The only problem is that they are white and terquoise/blue and make me look like a Power Ranger! The white is Ok and doesn't look out of place on my silver bike but I'd like to change the blue bits, probably to black to go with the helmet and boots, and it will probably be easier to go dark(?).
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#2 |
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got any pictures?
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#3 |
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Timpson do a black dye for leather shoes:
http://www.timpson.co.uk/online-stor...?product_id=75 This company make leather dyes - http://www.leprevo.co.uk/dyes.html - but they say "We do not recommend using our leather dyes for leather suites, car interiors or motorcycle leathers. This is because the finish is likely to be patchy and uneven, the dye is likely to come off again onto clothes and it would be very difficult to get a colour match." |
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#4 |
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I'll try for a picture tonight.
I'm not too worried about the close-up finished look, just so long as they look better ![]() |
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#5 |
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i work for a paint company & we make aproduct that has been used to refubish vintage car interiors. its called PVC94 & we could put it into aerosols for you. it will stretch & bend with the leather & should it start to wear, you can go over it.
http://www.hmgpaint.com/content/data...tds_hmg/83.pdf pm me if you are interested, i am sure i can organise a couple of aerosols for you Alan Last edited by maultin; 28-02-08 at 05:15 PM. |
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#6 |
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Cheers. That sounds like good stuff maultin. How much would you be looking at to go over the patches on a one piece suit (40%) ?
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#7 |
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Hmmm, first off you need to strip clean the areas being dyed. Something like Fiebings Dye Reducer will clean off a good proportion of finish/wax etc that it has accumilated over the years.
Then I'd recommend Fiebings Oil Dye - their basic dye in OK, but can leave a lot of excess on the surface, which will spread and mark the white parts when you buff it off. Oil dye is the better one, better penetration and coverage too. You can apply it with a brush, but you'll get a better finish if you use a short-pile piece of scrap sheepskin. Though then it's not that accurate on the edges, so I'd recommend masking off the white areas thoroughly. Give it a couple of coats then buff it up with another piece of sheepskin or a duster. Then if it needs it give it another coat - but you should get a good finish with just the two. Then give it a good going over with something like Acylic Resolene (apply sparingly and work in well to the dyed areas). Then give it a couple of days to rest, take off the masking and give the whole thing a good work over with nikwax or some other type of waterproofer. Though be careful it doesn't cause any bleed across from the newly dyed parts - it shouldn't do, but it's best to work each section separately the first couple of time you proof it just to be on the safe side. |
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#8 |
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Thanks K.
I'll see if anywhere local does all that. And try to get round to doing it all before the proper sunshine arrives! |
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#10 |
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