Pointy clocks diagnosis - am I right?

NB, all logic/wiring specified in this post is specific to the K6S. I haven't compared the diagrams to see if there's a difference. Excuse the long post.

As some know, I've had intermittent issues with the dash electrics on my bike, and a while back, it finally gave up the ghost. After spending approx 2h30 with a multimeter I think that the answer is the LCD panel is fubar'd. This means I have no speedo/clock/temp gauge. I've also lost the oil/FI warning light (it doesn't come on when you first turn the ignition on) and the fuel light doesn't appear to work (although I'm being cautious & filling up before it should really come on, just in case it doesn't work).

First step, was to strip the front fairing off (including screen/mirrors), disconnect headlights etc & put the fairing/headlight assembly in the shed. That'll get fitted when I've sorted the issue out finally.

Next, was to take the connector out of the back of the clocks (this rules out broken/rubbed wires by going to the last point of the circuit) play with the multimeter there.

From the front of the bike, looking at the clocks, the top left pin is numbered 1, there's 8 pins in two rows, so the last pin (bottom right) is 16. Top row 1-8, bottom row 9-16. I've also cross referenced with the wiring diagram to hopefully help others follow the troubleshooting steps.

When I get the chance, I'll make a diagram of my findings, but for now...

What I found was that pin 1 is the red/white wire that comes from the fuel fuse, and carries approx 12v live, constantly. This is connected to several places. Namely, pin 3 (speedo positive feed on orange/red wire), pin 4 (ECM on brown/black wire), pin 14 (fuel pump on black/green wire), pin 15 (neutral light switch on blue/black wire) Pins 3 & 4 & 15 all have 12v when connected to pin 1, pin 14 has 8.5v (I'm guessing due to circuit load through a primed fuel pump etc).

Pin 2 (orange/green wire) comes from the signal fuse carrying 12v to pins 3 & 4 (as above), and pin 6 (oil pressure switch on green/yellow wire).

Pin 8 (black/white) is a ground wire and connects to pin 9 (ECM on black/light green wire), and pin 14 (as above, this time 4.5v).

Pin 11 (black wire) is the left indicators/hazards, and carries 4.5v from pin 14 (fuel pump as above).

Pin 14 (again, fuel pump) also carries 4.5v to ground on pin 16 (a second black/white wire).

At this point, to my thinking, all functions are accounted for, nothing is missing. So the fault lies somewhere in the clocks. Funny how when it was resetting randomly, the red/orange lights would come on, and now both these lights & the LCD don't work (LCD is back lit BTW, but no details on it - I've found another unit in a breakers with the same problem too - and that's from a K7!!).

I'm not sure how much the next bit will help anyone other than SoulKiss. But I'm going to post it anyway. I decided to attack the back of the clocks themselves, keeping pin numbers the same as above for obvious reasons, and check for continuity/resistance. I'm hoping someone on the .Org will have experience with pointy clocks to know what's going wrong. But probably not as it's a bit of a black box...

Resistance testing (@...k signifies DMM setting, 200k unless otherwise stated)...
2-16: 1018 @20k ohm.
2-7 : steadily builds to infinite resistance roughly 1-2 (@2000k) every second.
2-6 : 0.18 @20k
2-4 : 0.25 @2000k
3-5 : 80.5
3-9 : 80.5
4-9 : 89
4-5 : 89
4-16: 68.2
5-6 : 25
5-7 : 80
5-14: 91.5
5-15: 51.3
5-16: 14.7
6-7 : 54.8
6-9 : 24.9
6-13: 96.7
6-14: 96.7
6-15: 51.5
6-16: 10.2
8-9 : 560 @2000k
8-13: constantly dropping to 0.
8-14: 880 @2000k
8-15: 830
8-16: constantly increases to infinite.
9-13: 91.9
9-14: 86.7
9-15: 86.7
9-16: 14.7

So folks, opinions? As voltages appear to be correct (to my thinking) at the connector, I'm guessing the clocks are at fault. £90 for new clocks. Not too bad...

21 views & no comments? Looks like I'll be buying some clocks & just selling them on if it doesn't fix the issue.

if the clocks are intermittently working it's not a connection issue is it?

Originally Posted by thefallenangel

if the clocks are intermittently working it's not a connection issue is it?

They're not intermittent anymore. The LCD/rev counter & oil/fuel lights don't work period. They were intermittent before.

Classic symptom of a worn wire to me, but haven't been able to find any.

SO baph ....What have you been uup to today ?


Good effort!

Right, new clocks on. Fired up first time, oh oh, rev counter to 6k RPm, but then it settled & I had no more troubles.

Putting the bike back together, I thought it best to re-check everything. So I went to start it up, CHEC. What?

Into dealership mode, and no faults.

Then the speed climbed, up to 140mph, without the engine on!! I now have the fastest SV in the land!

Could be a dodgy speedo sensor, but I haven't known about it because the clocks haven't worked. So I unplugged it, nope. Still doing 140mph without the engine running.

The interesting thing is, if I hit the kill switch, the speed drops to 0. At the moment, with the kill switch in the run position, the odometer is nicely ticking over with only the ignition on.

The clocks are from an unknown age bike, but had 172 miles on them, when the seller thought they'd have maybe 6k on them, so possibly faulty (but Ben wouldn't sell me dodgy clocks - so I know he won't know if they were faulty). Although he said it was a black frame, so K5 or K6.

Could it be that the speedo logic within the different years clocks is the problem?

Anyone, any thoughts? Please excuse me whilst I go strip the bikini fairing off again & swear a lot...

Fat lot of good you guys are!!

Resolved. First person to correctly guess how you can make an SV do 140mph when the wheels aren't turning, gets a pint from me at the AR.

[flymo]

Originally Posted by Baph

Fat lot of good you guys are!!

Resolved. First person to correctly guess how you can make an SV do 140mph when the wheels aren't turning, gets a pint from me at the AR.

Pull it on a trailer behind a Bugatti Veyron.

Mine's a nice cold lager.

[21QUEST]

Originally Posted by Baph

Fat lot of good you guys are!!

Resolved. First person to correctly guess how you can make an SV do 140mph when the wheels aren't turning, gets a pint from me at the AR.

Ahhh just as I was about to give you some pointers...oh well

Welllll you know I'm a demon, when it comes to electrical stuff

Mine is still errr f_ecked




Ben

[21QUEST]

Use a magnet to pull the needle round?

Pint of ice cold shandy...


Ben