Stripped screw removal.

As a few of you may know, I'm just starting to rebuild my VFR400 (the first rebuild I've ever done)

I've removed the tank, and all the fairings except for the lowers, which, as expected on a 19 year old bike, two of the screw heads are totally stripped.

As far as I know, I have two options to remove them;

First, and I think this is seen as the better way if it works, is to use a tool (not sure of the name - someone help?) where it has a thread the opposite way to a convential screw, and you screw that into the damaged one, and it undoes it. What is the name of this?

Second way is to drill it out?

Any other things I can try? It is in quite an awkward area and I can't get behind the screw at all.

Cheers

Dave

I'm no expert but I have previously had a battle with some exhaust studs that sheared off on my old 125.
"is to use a tool (not sure of the name - someone help?) where it has a thread the opposite way to a convential screw, and you screw that into the damaged one, and it undoes it. "
I think you mean a stud extractor bit (they are sold everywhere, screwfix even) but I'd only recommend using this if you cannot get an impact extractor on the end of the stripped screws/bolts.

You need to pilot a hole & then they bite into the bolt as you turn to extract.
However, if like me you snap one off the hardened steel bit in the bolt/screw it's almost impossible to get a sheared extractor bit extracted (seriously, a nightmare).

I have even welded a nut onto a tiny protruding part of a stud & then extracted with ease using an impact extractor.
Just make sure you order one with the correct jaw size (again I found out the hard way) or you will end up having to build up a weld on the offending bolt/screw before the impact extractor will bite (measure twice, cut once!).

Hope this helps.

[Stu]

Originally Posted by Fruity-ya-ya

However, if like me you snap one off the hardened steel bit in the bolt/screw it's almost impossible to get a sheared extractor bit extracted (seriously, a nightmare).

I think that has happened to everyone who has tried a stud extractor...and regretted it

I'm a big fan of stud extractor sets, just make sure you buy a decent one to avoid snapping them... Buy cheap, buy twice!

You can also get another type of stud extractor. The one I have looks like a socket set but has angled teeth inside that bite onto the protruding stud. The 'socket' fits onto a ratchet and is easy to use. The only down side is that there needs to be enough stud to get the bit onto, and enough space around it for the socked to turn.
Goos luck.

[fastdruid]

Originally Posted by EssexDave

As a few of you may know, I'm just starting to rebuild my VFR400 (the first rebuild I've ever done)

I've removed the tank, and all the fairings except for the lowers, which, as expected on a 19 year old bike, two of the screw heads are totally stripped.

Any other things I can try? It is in quite an awkward area and I can't get behind the screw at all.

Which two? I can't remember which NC yours was but the NC30/35 you can leave the lower faring in one piece and just remove it in one piece, you can also remove the fairing brackets if need be (and the side stand). Not so sure about the NC21/24.

Best method is heat + plusgas + impact driver but with fairing panels on flimsy brackets that gets tricky!

Druid

[maviczap]

If you can get some heat on them, that will help with the extraction.

If the head is still there, cut a new slot with a hacksaw blade or better a Dremel.

If you can get some heat on them, then use a centre punch to get the head turning. You need to punch the screw head on the outer edge in an anti clockwise direction.

Heat & plus gas will help here first

Last resort is the stud extractors, because if it snaps you will have a devil of a job getting out