Servicing questions.

Gonna change oil, filter, sparks maself this time. Pretty confident I'll be able to do it. Just wondering if there was anything I should particularly be looking out for? Seeing as I'm taking bits off am gonna give everything a good clean and can check everything I need to when in there....

when draining the oil just check for bits of metal and stuff like that

tighten oil filter by hand then another half turn to tighten properly

what ever you do, do not over tighten the spark plugs ! tiny bit off copper slip on the threads wont hurt

fill oil until half way on the glass when the bikes up right then let the bike fully warm up, switch off wait 10 min then recheck level, top up if needed, dont put to much in other wise neutral will be a git to find about half way up the glass is fine (in between low and high mark)

you will need a spark plug socket, and an oil filter socket and thats about it for specialist stuf, (you can use the spark plug tool in the tool kit)

[dizzyblonde]

http://forums.sv650.org/showthread.php?t=165220

Just makes sure the old oil seal is off, and theres no kinks in the new one, or you'll end up like Steve !!!

[flymo]

tread very carefully when working near the radiator, its very easily damaged and very expensive to replace.

Smear a little oil on the new filter "rubber" seal before putting it on. Save up for a torque wrench. I like the oil warm before draining it. Make sure you use oil that is suitable for motorcycles or you will end up with a slipping clutch.#
Get or download a manual. http://ursa.irk.ru/manual/

Open the oil filler cap when you drain the oil to allow air back in instead of the oil glugging out with the air going back in.

Also labelling things helps if youre taking loads of bits off. For instance, with the pointy airbox, theres a couple of plugs going into it. Labelling where they go can help putting it back together. A goes into A, B goes in to B, etc.

Keeping your bolts safe and seperate is a good thing too. I used the coin bags you get from banks and then stick a piece of paper in to say where it went. So a bag of bolts for the fairings, a bag for the tank, a bag for the seat, etc. Keep all the bags together. I used a celebrations tub from xmas. Its a lot easier to put it back together if everything tells you where to put it rather than looking at a pile of different bolts and going for a lucky dip picking out which one goes where.

Great tips! Thanks folks.

Ordered a oil filter wrench. Got a spark socket already so good to go there.

Scary biscuits re: oil filter seal!!

Already got a manual although do think a torque wrench will be a good buy!

Good tip re: oil filler cap, thanks. When I took my wee 125 apart I used stainless steel dog bowls and sandwhich bags to keep them all in. Good idea to label them clearly though!

Thanks again!

[rictus01]

if you are using the articulated sparkplug one from the toolkit, you can extract the plug by removing the lower rad bolt and easing it forward, if not it's best to remove the rad altogether (good opportunity to change the water/antifreeze), whilst there I'd also fit a length of tubing to the front vacuum takeoff (see any of the carb/throttle balancing threads) as it'l save you grief later on.

take your time, a point some have issue with is the fact the sump bolt is going in from the ground upwards, so do make sure you are turning it the right way to undo it, also get yourself a new copper washer, I think the book says to replace it anyway, but inspect it and re-use if it's in good nick, but it's nice to have the replacement to hand if needed, run the bike for a few minutes before doing the change, then give it a couple of minute to cool and settle, crack the seal on the sump bolt, then put a suitable container beneath and undo the bolt by hand (if it doesn't undo by hand someone has probably messed up the thread or used PTFE tape or something, so a good visual inspection should be carried out), I normally part fill the oil filter with fresh oil and make sure the flat metal and seal are both spotlessly clean and lubed with fresh oil, also remember your bike should have two fill amounts stated for it, one will a filter change and one without (obviously if you are measuring the amount of oil subtract what you put into the filter), finally don't just put in what the manual says, put in 3/4 and turn the bike over several times, then fill to just under full on the sight glass, run the bike to temp and allow to cool,top up as needed, and lastly check gear selector operation (as oil level can have an effect).

Some good tips there, thanks.
Wasn't going to bother changing the water as it was done last year but I guess there is no reason not to!

I know there are millions of threads and opinions about oil but I was looking for oil and noticed that some state they are for touring type bikes and others for high performance. Do folk think it really matters? If I go for a good brand of semi-synthetic I should be ok?

Does the same apply to anti-freeze? Just stick with a decent brand?

Cheers!

Originally Posted by rictus01

if you are using the articulated sparkplug one from the toolkit, you can extract the plug by removing the lower rad bolt and easing it forward, if not it's best to remove the rad altogether (good opportunity to change the water/antifreeze), whilst there I'd also fit a length of tubing to the front vacuum takeoff (see any of the carb/throttle balancing threads) as it'l save you grief later on.

take your time, a point some have issue with is the fact the sump bolt is going in from the ground upwards, so do make sure you are turning it the right way to undo it, also get yourself a new copper washer, I think the book says to replace it anyway, but inspect it and re-use if it's in good nick, but it's nice to have the replacement to hand if needed, run the bike for a few minutes before doing the change, then give it a couple of minute to cool and settle, crack the seal on the sump bolt, then put a suitable container beneath and undo the bolt by hand (if it doesn't undo by hand someone has probably messed up the thread or used PTFE tape or something, so a good visual inspection should be carried out), I normally part fill the oil filter with fresh oil and make sure the flat metal and seal are both spotlessly clean and lubed with fresh oil, also remember your bike should have two fill amounts stated for it, one will a filter change and one without (obviously if you are measuring the amount of oil subtract what you put into the filter), finally don't just put in what the manual says, put in 3/4 and turn the bike over several times, then fill to just under full on the sight glass, run the bike to temp and allow to cool,top up as needed, and lastly check gear selector operation (as oil level can have an effect).

If you ask 10 people about oil you'll get 10 different answers. I use Halfords part synthetic motorcycle oil, it conforms to the recommended spec API SG something (don't have the book to hand). The way I see it, is your average person (no disrespect) won't know what brand is better than another (of the same type of oil) unless they have 2 bikes, run them side by side for years on different oils, then totally strip both engines, and compare internal engine wear.