DIY dynojetting+K&Ning this weekend, any tips?

Rather than pay a small fortune for a service I decided to finally open that spotless(due to lack of use) socket set and do it myself. I originally intended to just replace the air+oil filters and the plugs and then torque all the bolts etc but I got bit carried away and now I'll be fitting a dynojet kit on Saturday. Fortunately there is another bloke at work who is a bit of a whizz( he's restoring an old Laverda and has completely stripped and reassembled the engine) so he can give me a hand.
I just wondered if anyone has any advice or tips or any useful info on fitting a kit like this to an SVsK2?
Any info greatly appreciated

Goose

Yes, Well done you seem to do what I do. So let the Whizz at work do the work. Then if it all goes pear shaped you can blame him. And if you ask the wife according to my mate at work load pipes save lives here comes the race can and it was not my idea

[Sid Squid]

The float bowl screws are often very tight and are made by Cadburys, be careful, the screws are in open holes so squirt a bit of WD40 or similar on the upper ends first and make sure you use a good fitting screwdriver.

Disconnect the choke cables at the handlebar, not at the carbs. Free them and remove with the carbs, much easier than trying to disconnect the choke at the carbs. Apart from that; Lefty Loosey, Righty Tighty

[northwind]

Pers'nally once the carbs are off I'd remove the choke cable bolts anyway, while they're accessable and impact driverable- if you take the cable off at the bar end you're avoiding the problem but it's still there and getting worse if you need to get into the plungers in future. But I had to do it from the bars the first time, and it seems liek most people are the same.

Have an impact driver and a pair of good mole grips handy And a box of spare bolts will be handy, since there's a good chance you're going to mangle at least one of the float bowl screws... IIRC they're something like M6x10mm?