Tips for getting the midsection off - SV650.org

06-05-05, 05:13 PM

Right, tomorrow i'm hoping to tackle a new can. Ben (21quest) has kindly provided me with a midsection so i don't have to cut mine, but i do have to get the can off.

I've just soaked the clamps in wd40 but i've a feeling the bottom one is going to be a right ba***rd to get off... and i'm not even sure how to get to the rear collector clamp as it's hidden behind the suspension.

Any tips would be appreciated or anyone knowing of a guide, speak up

thanks

northwind · 06-05-05, 08:27 PM

Don;t try and remove the header from the cylinder; instead break the pipe at the joint about 3 inches along. You'd probably worked that out

It's just a question of removing the side panels and using a good long extension on a ratchet to undo the clamp, really. Shouldn't need to remove anything else, at least if it's anything like mine.

06-05-05, 08:50 PM

Oooh, i get to remove the sinde panels, exciting! (Sorry, i just had fun taking off the tax disc holder and left rear footpeg... i'm easily amused with the SV)

northwind · 06-05-05, 08:56 PM

You're weird

06-05-05, 10:33 PM

Me? Never!

I tell you what, i hope the rear clamp is easier to undo than the one underneath, it still won't budge for toffee.

carelesschucca · 06-05-05, 10:39 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by northwind

You're weird

Pot Calling Kettle, Pot calling Kettle...

07-05-05, 01:22 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jon

Me? Never!

I tell you what, i hope the rear clamp is easier to undo than the one underneath, it still won't budge for toffee.

Try soaking it in a decent penetrating oil; wd40 really isn't up to the job.

Sid Squid · 07-05-05, 09:58 AM

It won't be that tough to do, the sleeve joins have graphite gasket sleeves in them and don't corrode to the pipe that bad as there is very little metal to metal contact, if the clamps are rusty and hard to undo just bin them and fit some stainless ones, most bike shops will have them and they're about £3 each.

The bit that can be awkward is the front clamp at the cylinder head, often badly corroded, if the nuts don't move easily and immediately, give serious consideration to cutting them off, you really do not want to risk snapping a stud trying to undo them, and it's frighteningly easily done. Once the nuts are off, it's not unknown to find that the clamp is corroded to the studs, this can normally be tapped - gingerly - around and moved eventually, again if it doesn't move fairly soon, stop, I've had to cut three of these off, but it's better than drilling broken studs/having to remove the head so the engineering shop can work on it etc.

Bottom line: GO EASY.

northwind · 07-05-05, 06:00 PM

Big plus one for that, I broke off an exhaust stud on the orrible Yam and it was an absolute nightmare.

Viney · 08-05-05, 01:53 AM

You dont have to undo the bolt on the rear cylinder clamp, it will wiggle off! Udo the 2 bolts on the fornt cylinder undo the can, dont forget the bolt on the stand side under the engine! and wiggle away. It'll come off.

Done it more times than i care to forget!

06-05-05, 05:13 PM	#1
jon Guest Posts: n/a	Tips for getting the midsection off Right, tomorrow i'm hoping to tackle a new can. Ben (21quest) has kindly provided me with a midsection so i don't have to cut mine, but i do have to get the can off. I've just soaked the clamps in wd40 but i've a feeling the bottom one is going to be a right ba***rd to get off... and i'm not even sure how to get to the rear collector clamp as it's hidden behind the suspension. Any tips would be appreciated or anyone knowing of a guide, speak up thanks

06-05-05, 08:27 PM	#2
northwind Moderator Mega Poster Join Date: Jan 2004 Location: In the garage where I belong Posts: 17,083	Don;t try and remove the header from the cylinder; instead break the pipe at the joint about 3 inches along. You'd probably worked that out It's just a question of removing the side panels and using a good long extension on a ratchet to undo the clamp, really. Shouldn't need to remove anything else, at least if it's anything like mine. __________________ "We are the angry mob, we read the papers every day We like what we like, we hate what we hate But we're oh so easily swayed"

06-05-05, 08:56 PM	#4
northwind Moderator Mega Poster Join Date: Jan 2004 Location: In the garage where I belong Posts: 17,083	You're weird __________________ "We are the angry mob, we read the papers every day We like what we like, we hate what we hate But we're oh so easily swayed"

07-05-05, 09:58 AM	#8
Sid Squid No, I don't lend tools. Mega Poster Join Date: Jul 2003 Location: Skunk Works, Nth London Posts: 8,680	It won't be that tough to do, the sleeve joins have graphite gasket sleeves in them and don't corrode to the pipe that bad as there is very little metal to metal contact, if the clamps are rusty and hard to undo just bin them and fit some stainless ones, most bike shops will have them and they're about £3 each. The bit that can be awkward is the front clamp at the cylinder head, often badly corroded, if the nuts don't move easily and immediately, give serious consideration to cutting them off, you really do not want to risk snapping a stud trying to undo them, and it's frighteningly easily done. Once the nuts are off, it's not unknown to find that the clamp is corroded to the studs, this can normally be tapped - gingerly - around and moved eventually, again if it doesn't move fairly soon, stop, I've had to cut three of these off, but it's better than drilling broken studs/having to remove the head so the engineering shop can work on it etc. Bottom line: GO EASY. __________________ If an SV650 has a flat tyre in the forest and no-one is there to blow it up, how long will it be 'til someone posts that the reg/rec is duff and the world will end unless a CBR unit is fitted? A little bit of knowledge = a dangerous thing. "a deathless anthem of nuclear-strength romantic angst"

07-05-05, 06:00 PM	#9
northwind Moderator Mega Poster Join Date: Jan 2004 Location: In the garage where I belong Posts: 17,083	Big plus one for that, I broke off an exhaust stud on the orrible Yam and it was an absolute nightmare. __________________ "We are the angry mob, we read the papers every day We like what we like, we hate what we hate But we're oh so easily swayed"

06-05-05, 08:50 PM	#3
jon Guest Posts: n/a	Oooh, i get to remove the sinde panels, exciting! (Sorry, i just had fun taking off the tax disc holder and left rear footpeg... i'm easily amused with the SV)

06-05-05, 10:33 PM	#5
jon Guest Posts: n/a	Me? Never! I tell you what, i hope the rear clamp is easier to undo than the one underneath, it still won't budge for toffee.

08-05-05, 01:53 AM	#10
Viney Member Mega Poster Join Date: Jul 2003 Location: In the shadows to the left Posts: 7,700	You dont have to undo the bolt on the rear cylinder clamp, it will wiggle off! Udo the 2 bolts on the fornt cylinder undo the can, dont forget the bolt on the stand side under the engine! and wiggle away. It'll come off. Done it more times than i care to forget!

Similar Threads
Thread	Thread Starter	Forum	Replies	Last Post
Anybody got any tips on how to.......?	clodge	Idle Banter	14	05-09-07 01:29 PM
suspension tips	somnus	SV Talk, Tuning & Tweaking	4	12-08-07 02:47 PM
Filtering tips	andyaikido	Bikes - Talk & Issues	49	23-11-05 06:14 PM
Any tips?	BillyC	SV Talk, Tuning & Tweaking	18	10-11-05 07:36 PM
Running SV without Exhaust / Midsection	jon	SV Talk, Tuning & Tweaking	20	18-05-05 05:57 PM