Shim the Carbs Needles - SV650.org

TSM · 24-07-05, 11:52 AM

I have read several articles on shiming the needles to smoothen out the power curve of the sv.

Some say to move the small washer to below the circlip others say get another .020 washer and place it below the clip.

Which is the best way?

Is it a good idea to do this along with the air filter or would that still make the mixture to lean unless you change the jets at the same time?

I already removed the carbs when i took my restrictors out but at the time it did not occur to me to change the position of the washer on the needle.

northwind · 24-07-05, 07:09 PM

Your bike should have slotted needles anyway so you can just move the e-clip. Most of those writeups are for US spec bikes. I'd be surprised if you'll get much benefit with just that and a Quill though. Could even give you rich issues.

TSM · 24-07-05, 08:16 PM

http://www.geocities.com/catpoopman/howtoshim.html

Quote:

Why shim the carb needles you ask? Well it helps fatten up the fuel mixture around the 4-5000 rpm area where the SV is known to have a power dip. This simple procedure makes your stock SV ride better and gain a bit more punch in the mid range. If you have a slip on system it is even more important to do.

This was the info i saw regarding it.

I might try it and see what it does. If i was getting a rich mixture, putting in a K&N should lean it out a bit

johnnyrod · 25-07-05, 11:26 AM

Shimming usually means rich midrange and lean top end, you really need to go for bigger jets. Dyno set up is best, if your wallet will take it.

24-07-05, 11:52 AM	#1
TSM The Sick Man Mega Poster Join Date: Nov 2004 Location: Peckham.SE.LDN Posts: 4,768	Shim the Carbs Needles I have read several articles on shiming the needles to smoothen out the power curve of the sv. Some say to move the small washer to below the circlip others say get another .020 washer and place it below the clip. Which is the best way? Is it a good idea to do this along with the air filter or would that still make the mixture to lean unless you change the jets at the same time? I already removed the carbs when i took my restrictors out but at the time it did not occur to me to change the position of the washer on the needle. __________________ OTR: KTM 690 Duke R 2015 Full Akro SIDELINE: Kwak ZX636 A1P 2002, Red, R&G's, Yoshi, Double Bubble Screen GONE: Kwak ZX-7R P1, Full Akro, Undertray, Screen GONE: SV650S K2 Very Bruised & Without Fairing, Motovation Frame Sliders, R&G Ally Sprocket Toe Protector, HEL 2 Line Setup, GSXR K1 600 RWU Forks, Barnett Clutch & Springs, Penske 8981 Shock, Gilles Ti Rearsets, Steel Barends, Scottoiler, AFAM Chain & Sprockets, Twin FIAMM Horns, Skidmarx Bellypan, Full Micron Zeta Steel System, Cut down undertay. Forum Problems & Information / Site Suggestions

24-07-05, 07:09 PM	#2
northwind Moderator Mega Poster Join Date: Jan 2004 Location: In the garage where I belong Posts: 17,083	Your bike should have slotted needles anyway so you can just move the e-clip. Most of those writeups are for US spec bikes. I'd be surprised if you'll get much benefit with just that and a Quill though. Could even give you rich issues. __________________ "We are the angry mob, we read the papers every day We like what we like, we hate what we hate But we're oh so easily swayed"

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25-07-05, 11:26 AM	#4
johnnyrod Member Mega Poster Join Date: Jul 2003 Location: Doncaster, oop norf Posts: 2,128	Shimming usually means rich midrange and lean top end, you really need to go for bigger jets. Dyno set up is best, if your wallet will take it.