HOW MUCH?! - I'll Give it a go myself thanks

Originally Posted by ad53ggz

yeah there ok i have done a few of them... i dont have access to the autodata book anymore but someone might if you want more detailed instructions. But if i remember wasnt bad at all

more posts like this would be great for my confidence

theyre easy, just remember to get the crank pin an cam locking tool in BEFORE touching the crankshaft pulley bolt as the pulleys arent keyed.
also use a new bolt and tighten properly (cant remember exact numbers but its x nm followed by so many degrees) and DONT tighten it against the pin, get someone to lock the flywheel with a screwdriver through the hole in the top of the bell housing.

[punyXpress]

Your local library might have a Haynes manual for it. Just dont take it as gospel.
Ooops sorry it closed last week

cant 100% remember, but think you need to once the old belt is off etc just put the bottom pulley bolt in and turn it to make sure the crank is still resting on the bottom pin.. think you can also do it from the gearbox flywheel (using a long screw driver). Dont think those pins lock as such just stop the crank turning any further forward so you just want to be sure the crank is resting on the pin. Hope that makes sense.

Kinda does, having read the haynes it makes more sense than when I read it before. I've bought the proper renault kit inc camshaft locking bracket, TDC pins and some other gubbins all as part of the kit.

[mikerj]

I changed the timing belts (all three of them) on my ZS180 a few weeks back. For some reason all the cars I have owned in the last few years have been terrible jobs for cam belt changes (MR2 turbo, Fiat Coupe 20V turbo), but this one took the proverbial biscuit and most of a weekend of pain.

I'm not even going to attempt mine - Just hand the cash over the garage and let them sort it while I'll get my courtesy car

[timwilky]

I did a change on the little clio when I got it. I do not know the specifics of your engine. However. On my renault, the water pump is driven of the back of the timing belt. I took the decision to also change my water pump as a failure of that could also cause the timing belt to fail and as I would have eveything removed, no real additional labour. some pumps do not have a gasket and you need red sealant.

The manuals go on about locking the crank/camshaft etc. No real need, I wound mine to the appropriate timing marks before removing belt. careful about change and bobs your mothers brother etc.

The torquing up of the main pully can be a bit funny as in a certain touque and then though an addional angle.

If you are doing brakes, change the fluid.

[mikerj]

Originally Posted by timwilky

The manuals go on about locking the crank/camshaft etc. No real need, I wound mine to the appropriate timing marks before removing belt. careful about change and bobs your mothers brother etc.

Locking the cam and crank is mandatory on some cars, e.g. my ZS, since you need to compensate for any variance in belt length, tensioner and idler diameters and water pump center tolerances by moving the pulleys w.r.t. the cams. You can just wedge another belt on and hope for the best, but chances are the timing will not be optimal and performance and economy will suffer.

Aye tim, the water pump is on order also - saying that I hadnt checked the need for any gasket or sealent. Very pleased you mentioned it cheers fella.