crappy brakes

Northy. Does this R6 master cylinder fit the pointy?

[northwind]

Dunno... It'll fit on the bars, and it'll work just as well as it does on the curvy, but it might foul the fairings- it's tight as anything on the curvy as standard, you need to mount it almost flat or bend the lever slightly. There's loads of others that are good upgrades too, just that this is the only one I did myself- plus it's the cheapest way to get the Brembo logo on the bike Even if it is more or less a fake, built in the Yamaha factory.

[Sid Squid]

As an addition to Quest's very good point about the calipers not sliding, (which eats up a huuuge amount of your brake pressure when they don't), the upper pin upon which the large ear of the inner pad slides often gets a notch worn it where the brake torque presses the pad ear on to it, this stops the pad moving correctly. I've re-welded a number of these in recent times and it makes a significant difference to the brake action and power.

Originally Posted by Sid Squid

As an addition to Quest's very good point about the calipers not sliding, (which eats up a huuuge amount of your brake pressure when they don't), the upper pin upon which the large ear of the inner pad slides often gets a notch worn it where the brake torque presses the pad ear on to it, this stops the pad moving correctly. I've re-welded a number of these in recent times and it makes a significant difference to the brake action and power.

Just serviced my brakes this past weekend and noticed the same damn thing. I assume that if not wanting to buy new, that re-welding is the only way to go?

[Sid Squid]

Originally Posted by BigApe

Just serviced my brakes this past weekend and noticed the same damn thing. I assume that if not wanting to buy new, that re-welding is the only way to go?

Yes, but obviously you'll want to assess the overall level of wear to the caliper elsewhere, primarily where the pin slides through the body of the caliper and there's metal to metal contact, if the caliper body is worn there, (caliper body aluminium, pin steel), then the caliper isn't worth spending time on, as if it twists in use, (the hole ovals), it'll never work right.

So, I'm thinking that you might want some welding done - very reasonable rates for those who properly appreciate my efforts .

I've still got an undiagnosed problem with just one of my calipers. Both pistons in it retract a truly ridiculous way when the brake lever's released. I see this when the caliper's off the bike and the pads out. Squeeze, and both the pistons move out (but not far), release, they go back in again! This means there's a much-too-large amount of lever travel before breaking. The adjustable lever's on 1 and I've got small hands. The other caliper doesn't do it. My conclusion? It has to be something in the hose that side. Rictus did suggest swapping calipers from side to side to see what happened, but I've haven't yet.

[northwind]

Originally Posted by chazzyb

I've still got an undiagnosed problem with just one of my calipers. Both pistons in it retract a truly ridiculous way when the brake lever's released. I see this when the caliper's off the bike and the pads out. Squeeze, and both the pistons move out (but not far), release, they go back in again! This means there's a much-too-large amount of lever travel before breaking. The adjustable lever's on 1 and I've got small hands. The other caliper doesn't do it. My conclusion? It has to be something in the hose that side. Rictus did suggest swapping calipers from side to side to see what happened, but I've haven't yet.

Or dragging seals pulling it back in... Or a fault in the master cylinder, showing up in just one caliper as it's moving more freely than the other... Or other stuff.

[Sid Squid]

Originally Posted by northwind

Or a fault in the master cylinder, showing up in just one caliper as it's moving more freely than the other...

That was my first thought: Blocked/restricted relief port.

A mate had just that very problem with his nissin bandit600 brakes.

He bled, and bled again, upgraded lines, pads, new fluid, swaped discs, cleaned out the calipers, added a spacer behind the lever at the plunger(alters the stroke) - did the lot, and nothing improved it much. In the end it drove him barmy, so he upgraded to a set of 4pots & adapter plates which i gave him (generous to a fault, some say!).

I think it's caused by several things occuring at once. Discs and pads near the wear limit AND the pistons on one caliper being much free'er (?), than the other. Thus when you release the lever one side remains close to the disc, the other gets drawn back almost 2x normal. It doesn't make sense when you think whats going on re. fluid transfer, but thats what happened in his case.

i managed to get a new set of calipers as mine are way shagged but they were already that way when i got the bike at that time i put sinted pads and hel lines on but to still no avail so iv managed to pick me up a set of 2004 calipers for 50 sheet from the states and they only have 1600 miles on em to my 28000 so i hope this cures it