Bike Skills

RIGHT YOUR ON. got some serious partying to sort out at reading then ill give you a nod

[dizzyblonde]

oh and theres YorkieChris too, but be careful hes a good spannery type when it comes to SVs, but usually it involves big hammers.....lol

Hi Andy,

When pulling out of a junction, or any slow speed turn, trail (apply lightly and continuously) your rear brake, whilst also looking where you want to go as you turn. The rear brake will help smooth out any jerky clutch movement and serves to reduce your turning circle. At first you might want to experiment trailing the rear brake by riding as slow as you can in a straight line, slipping the clutch a little, keeping your head up and focusing on something straight ahead but in the distance to assist your balance.

The fact that you can identify areas of concern tells me that you are thinking about what you're doing post ride. That's great. What you could add now is the intention to focus on a specific aspect of your ride every time you go out. At the early stage of your riding career there's so much to think about that it helps to break it down and focus one thing at a time.
Putting miles under your tyres without any forethought is as likely to allow bad habits to develop as it is to help you.

To help you get started on your own plan there are some fantastic technique articles written by a trainer I know called Kevin Williams. There's 78 articles there, so loads to read and try on the road.

It's a lot less painful to learn from others mistakes than your own. Have fun!

Right had a good hour or so last night. I tried u turns on the estate and got laughed at by a few passers bye

Now i think i know what the problem is. The rear brake is positioned above the rear peg. This means that when im trying to feather the rear brake i have to have my whole foot on the brake instead of pivoting it on the peg. So basically im slamming it on instead of feathering it. Thus im slowing too much and the bikes going over. Im going to try and have a go aagin tonight after i adjust it and will see.

Thanks for all your help btw folks it means a lot

[ogden]

Originally Posted by AndyBrad

Right had a good hour or so last night. I tried u turns on the estate and got laughed at by a few passers bye

Now i think i know what the problem is. The rear brake is positioned above the rear peg. This means that when im trying to feather the rear brake i have to have my whole foot on the brake instead of pivoting it on the peg. So basically im slamming it on instead of feathering it.

I think I last used my rear brake some time around 1997.

If you're doing a U-turn, you're probably going very slowly. Remember that slow control throttle stuff you were taught during your training? Ignore it. If you're on a rinky-dink 125 or a moped, you'll need to use all that throttle-blipping and clutch-slipping to get any kind of usable torque because there'll be nothing at low revs. On anything > 250cc that just won't be necessary.

Lowish revs, slip the clutch a tiny bit if you need to, just enough power to let the bike inch forward fast enough for you to complete the turn without flopping over sideways. If you need to use the back brake to slow things down, you're giving it too much gas, so focus on what you're getting wrong rather than complicating things by trying to compensate.

That said, I've probably done three or four tight U-turns since I did my test 14 years ago - junctions into side roads are perfect for U-turns, all that extra room! If I wanted to prat about doing low-speed maneuvers I'd become a trials rider.

And ignore the pillocks pointing and laughing. Practice lots, get good, then run them over.

Originally Posted by ogden

I think I last used my rear brake some time around 1997.

If you're doing a U-turn, you're probably going very slowly. Remember that slow control throttle stuff you were taught during your training? Ignore it. If you're on a rinky-dink 125 or a moped, you'll need to use all that throttle-blipping and clutch-slipping to get any kind of usable torque because there'll be nothing at low revs. On anything > 250cc that just won't be necessary.

Lowish revs, slip the clutch a tiny bit if you need to, just enough power to let the bike inch forward fast enough for you to complete the turn without flopping over sideways. If you need to use the back brake to slow things down, you're giving it too much gas, so focus on what you're getting wrong rather than complicating things by trying to compensate.

That said, I've probably done three or four tight U-turns since I did my test 14 years ago - junctions into side roads are perfect for U-turns, all that extra room! If I wanted to prat about doing low-speed maneuvers I'd become a trials rider.

And ignore the pillocks pointing and laughing. Practice lots, get good, then run them over.

lol I like it

Biggest one that everyone says is to relax. Easier said than done. So, I advise channeling all that tension into your thighs - grip that tank like a Thai stripper with a ping pong ball and leave your upper body, shoulders and arms relaxed. Try making a mental effort to drop your inside shoulder, and look where you want to go rather than where you're actually headed.

I came back to bikes after a couple of year break and despite 15 years and well over a hundred thousand miles on two wheels I was suprised at how I'd forgotton how to do those slow speed tight radius corners. It comes back quickly with a few miles

[Red Herring]

A couple of tips to help with the slow riding, tight junctions, filtering scenario. Despite what some have said the easiest control to use is the back brake (once properly adjusted), it's the most accurate and as your foot isn't moving when you turn the handlebars, the most consistent.
Start off by putting the bike in first gear then put your left foot down, right foot on brake. Then gently increase the revs to a fast tickover, 1,500 to 2,000 RPM will be fine. Then still holding the bike stationery on the brake let the clutch out slightly to the point when it bites and the revs fall slightly, but don't compensate with more throttle. Once you find this point keep the throttle and the clutch exactly where they are. You obviously don't want to sit like this for long as you are now warming the clutch up nicely so gently let off the brake. The bike will start to accelerate and if you leave the brake off will eventually reach a speed where the clutch is no longer slipping, but that is not what you want. Use the rear brake to keep the speed down to walking pace, either by rubbing it gently or by a series of little dabs. Because you are trying to go in a straight line you are going to need some steering to keep the bike up right, so it's actually easier to learn this by riding in a circle, but either way the important bit is not to move the throttle or clutch. If you want to stop just apply the brake harder and the bike will end up back in position one, 2.000 revs and clutch slipping slightly.... (best to learn in a circle to the left so you don't need to put your right foot down).
A trick to help keep the throttle in the same place is to slide your hand out and grip the bar end weight with the outside two fingers. Likewise if you only use two fingers on the clutch you can use the others to grip the bar. You should be able to shake the bars from side to side without moving the throttle or clutch.

When you are doing this in a circle (or tight roundabout/junction if you want a road scenario) then if the bike starts to fall into the turn all you need to do is let off a little brake and the bike will pick itself up, likewise if you are running wide then a little more brake will pull the bike down into the turn.

As you get better at it you will start to use the technique a bit faster, even with the clutch fully engaged, especially when pulling out of junctions when you need to tighten the line slightly...something you mentioned in your OP. Leave the throttle and clutch alone and just dab the rear brake slightly, much easier, smoother and safer.

Good luck, oh and I second the suggestion that you get a little help earlier on than latter. It's all very well telling you to go out and get more experience but you need to survive to enjoy that experience.....

[ogden]

Disregard the above.

To do a quick, safe, compact U-turn...

1. Grab a handful of front barke
2. Stand up off the seat
3. Raise the revs to peak torque and let the clutch out carefully
4. Once the back's spinning, walk sideways, pirouetting around the front wheel.
5. Once facing the right way, let go of the front brake, dump the clutch.

At this point you *may* want to try a dab of rear brake.

Originally Posted by ogden

Disregard the above.

To do a quick, safe, compact U-turn...

1. Grab a handful of front barke
2. Stand up off the seat
3. Raise the revs to peak torque and let the clutch out carefully
4. Once the back's spinning, walk sideways, pirouetting around the front wheel.
5. Once facing the right way, let go of the front brake, dump the clutch.

At this point you *may* want to try a dab of rear brake.

strangly enough thats what a chap at work said. Although i would be picking myself out of a hedge im sure