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#31 |
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Some parts make sense to buy 2nd hand I'd say this is one I'd want to be very careful of buying used due to the number of worn items. It's bad value to buy worn out parts at any price.
Jambo Sent without a real keyboard
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#32 |
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I definitely understand that and if I had the spare monney I would buy a new part but with the tax and mot renewals coming up soon and needing to replace the tyres, indicators, a mirror, all the brake pads and the fuel sensor I just don't have the spare money to pay for a brand new part... If a second hand part has the same problem after a while I'll save up for a new one
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#33 | |
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#34 |
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I always wondered if you could pop a ball bearing down the actuator pot to thereby extending the pushrod length. Then do the readjustment.
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Learn to maintain your bike, take it apart, rebuild the engine & more (using better bolts ![]() K3 Job c.v: Engine:remove/split/rebuild/refit. Replace:Gearbox,Fuel pump,Gaskets. Piston clean,rings. Overhaul:Throttle body,Injectors,Brakes,Forks. Remove/refit:Exhaust,Radiator,Oil cooler,Throttle,Air filter,Tank. Replace: Oil,Coolant,grease,brake hoses & bleed. |
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#35 |
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My dad did something like that on one of his old bikes, he put some solder on the end of the clutch push rod to lengthen it because it was worn. It worked apparently! That's not to say it'll work on an SV though cos his problem was that the rod was worn, not the worm ger itself...
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#36 |
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Gear*, not ger :P
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#37 | |
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The problem is that the spiral tracks of the lifter where the balls run wear - particularly those of the inner part. If you dismantle and clean the lifter it will be immediately obvious as you can see where the grooves are widened, the lifter turns as it should when pulled around by the cable, but does not advance as much in doing so, meaning the lifter is unable to push the rod as much as is needed. Altering the length of the rod will not change the section of the spiral that the balls run upon, that's a function of the position of the arm that the cable pulls. Even if that were changed the spiral's worn sections are close enough together that there are not enough unworn sections to improve matters. I am extremely mean, if there were a realistic workaround for a worn lifter I'm pretty sure we would have discovered it by now ![]()
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#38 |
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Plus it would cause excessive wear on one side of the spirals. It always amazes me how little the plates needs to split to make a clutch do its job. It also amazes how much force is exerted from the clutch lever through to the lifter. Once I had removed the lifter for cleaning and tried to push the rod in using the length of a hammer. I barely moved it. The lifter aint exactly industrial gauge made either.
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Learn to maintain your bike, take it apart, rebuild the engine & more (using better bolts ![]() K3 Job c.v: Engine:remove/split/rebuild/refit. Replace:Gearbox,Fuel pump,Gaskets. Piston clean,rings. Overhaul:Throttle body,Injectors,Brakes,Forks. Remove/refit:Exhaust,Radiator,Oil cooler,Throttle,Air filter,Tank. Replace: Oil,Coolant,grease,brake hoses & bleed. |
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