Oil Concerns - think there is a problem?

[yorkie_chris]

If you're around halifax then ace motor factors sell motul 5100 10w40 which I use, halifax motorcycle services sell the putoline oils. The halfords stuff will be better than sod all untill you can change it for some better stuff.

The ecosse trip was riding it properly...

Originally Posted by AndyBrad

Sorry to potentially hijack but now we know we need to keep it topped up. Can anyone recomend a cheap place to get motorbike oil btw halfords motorcycle oil isnt the correct stuff. Doesnt have that jamo cert.

That's JASO MA ( means it's been through the Japanese wet clutch performance test ) There is also a JASO MB spec, but this isn't as high performance and you can find this on some 4 stroke scooter oil.

All good bike oils should have JASO MA, and a minimum API SG, although the latest formulations will have a higher API rating (SJ/SL) which is ok if accompanied by the JASO spec.

Nana

http://www.trustmymechanic.com/motor-oil-bible.pdf

Page 101 onwards (especially, this is the bike stuff) shows what the oils in bikes are all about.

The stuff near the start is all oil (lubricant) specific and is an interesting read.

Enjoy

(hope the link works fine)

Originally Posted by ThEGr33k

http://www.trustmymechanic.com/motor-oil-bible.pdf

Page 101 onwards (especially, this is the bike stuff) shows what the oils in bikes are all about.

The stuff near the start is all oil (lubricant) specific and is an interesting read.

Enjoy

(hope the link works fine)

Written 2002 ( so it's well out of date ) and aimed at the US market which is much different to ours here. Some useful information but take some with a pinch of salt.

Don't believe all that is written about car and bike oils being the same - and API is an American CAR oil specification - never has and never will be a bike engine spec - that's exactly why the Japanese came out with the JASO specification because the formulations used in car oils after API SG started to show problems with wet clutches and premature gear wear.
Oil companies develop specific oils for bikes because their needs are different - you won't find Shell Helix car oil in the works Ducati, or Castrol Magnatec in the Gresini Honda's ... The Japanese have continued to recommend SG because they know that specifications above that can give rise to problems - it's the motorcycle manufacturers who dictate the specifications - not the oil companies - they just develop oils to suit the specific requirements.

And the bit about warranty and different viscosities is missleading - I think you'll find that it's the specification that's more improtant than the viscosity, and if you don't use the right specification ( especially in a car under warranty ) - you don't have a leg to stand on if it goes bang. Ask someone who's had a turbo go on a BMW that hasn;t used a full synthetic oil that meets BMW OEM spec - and yes, it's the first thing they look at !

For the extra cost - and I think you'll find bike oils are cheaper than many car oils - it's not worth the risk - after all, the oil is the only thing stopping your engine seizing - look at it this way, I have some Nice Avon Azaro's - or some nice "Golden Boy" - £20 cheaper - same size, both will fit, they are both made of rubber and are black ... which do you want ?

Bottom line is, use a good quality oil designed for your engine, keep it topped up ( because remember, that 2L, or less of oil has to lubricate, clean, cool, contain all the by products, protect against acid attack, and seal the rings etc - less oil = less cooling = faster oil oxidation and breakdown = faster oil related problems ) and change it regular - then you shouldn't have any bother.

That oil will last you a whole year - even if you use full synthetic best quality most expensive - how much is that compared to what you spend on petrol over that period ?

Nana

Aye fair enough Nana.

I wasnt taking what that said as gospel at all... I mostly read the bits about Synthetic vs petrolium oils and the other little bits.

Cheers for putting me right... Not that Id risk Car oil as I know bikes have a whole lot in there.

That's an interesting document there Nana- thanks for posting it.

Hiya - this thread has hammered it in that I've gotta check my oil more often!

About checking the oil - you have to warm the engine on idle for a few minutes, stop the engine and wait a few minutes for the oil to drop back from the sump and then check the level. Is that right?

Cheers all!

As per the book yes, but if it's close to the top line at the sight glass when cold then there is no need to warm it up.

Originally Posted by thedonal

That's an interesting document there Nana- thanks for posting it.

But But But I posted it...

[yorkie_chris]

Originally Posted by banana

That oil will last you a whole year - even if you use full synthetic best quality most expensive - how much is that compared to what you spend on petrol over that period ?

Nana

Only line in your post that doesn't make sense to me there...