nowmy bike wont start

or is it datatag..

oblong red sign ..

Any number of things could've blown the fuses while you were fiddling but it's probably just from removing the battery, my mate did this on his GSX-R once (same as you, alarm and main fuse blown).

phil thats re assuring

i worried its gonna happen again when i riding.

Quiff, I use the "service mode" quite a bit, especially on rideouts. Means that when I stop for gas, or want to open the rear seat etc I don't have to worry about the Alarm.

Anyways, time for bed.....

.

Its not the trembler thats knackered it's the perimmeter switch, the trembler is internal to the alarm. You dont have to by a new switch from datatool any suitable switch will do, try maplins, oh and it doesn't matter wether the switch is nc or no it's the change of state that triggers the alarm.

The led can be replaced but I' m not sure if you need a 12v one or not, ask datatoll, yet again Maplins will be much cheaper than datatool whenit comes to the replacement - you could even get a different colour one. Don't forget that polarity is important when connecting leds, they won't work otherwise. PS if you have a curvy the best place to mount the led is in the back of the rear light cluster, just drill a small hole in from the back and insert led - looks like the brake light is flashing obviously this precludes the use of colour leds white is best here.

Quiff, please note, only speculation...

Usually, alarms are wired into the positive lead on the indicators (the alarm gives a pulse to flash the indicators).

The System 3 isn't really designed to do it, but it's not all that uncommon for it to blow the fuse when the indicator positive hits the frame (and grounds itself, completing the circuit). This happens because current comes from the bike (were you working on it with the ignition on? Usually the case) & then goes the wrong way back up the wire, and this doesn't have a diode on it.

The alarm then thinks "Oh bugger, what do I do with this?" & trips at least the inline fuse. If the inline fuse is in the same region (rating wise) as the main 30A fuse, a quick spike can be enough to blow this one too.

The system 3 is also designed (IIRC) from a safety standpoint. If the engine is running, and the alarm arms for any reason, it cannot enforce immobiliser. So you've no need to worry about your bike shutting down at 70mph on the motorway! The only thing that could do this is if the main fuse pops again (Carry the spare you bought with you).

That's about the only cause I can think of for both inline & main fuses going, unless you were tinkering with other electronics too.

Of course, it could be completely unrelated to your messing about, if you keep having problems, post back on the org I know naff all about the mechanical side, but aint too shabby on the electrics. I know there's other electronically minded folks here too

Originally Posted by Jelster

Quiff, I use the "service mode" quite a bit, especially on rideouts. Means that when I stop for gas, or want to open the rear seat etc I don't have to worry about the Alarm.



.

Ditto that, so useful and means you're not running down the fob battery all the time. Trouble is now I've got a Meta and it doesn't seem to have an easy set maintenance mode.

I miss my Datatool.

Originally Posted by John Burt

Its not the trembler thats knackered it's the perimmeter switch, the trembler is internal to the alarm. You dont have to by a new switch from datatool any suitable switch will do, try maplins, oh and it doesn't matter wether the switch is nc or no it's the change of state that triggers the alarm.

The led can be replaced but I' m not sure if you need a 12v one or not, ask datatoll, yet again Maplins will be much cheaper than datatool whenit comes to the replacement - you could even get a different colour one. Don't forget that polarity is important when connecting leds, they won't work otherwise. PS if you have a curvy the best place to mount the led is in the back of the rear light cluster, just drill a small hole in from the back and insert led - looks like the brake light is flashing obviously this precludes the use of colour leds white is best here.

ta muchly- the hole is already there in he back light- just need to fix the wire to it.. ..

I e mailed datatool- and for free- as a courtesy- they are sending me a new anti tamper switch.. the new type too wth a magnet. ! aint that good service.

Originally Posted by Baph

Quiff, please note, only speculation...

Usually, alarms are wired into the positive lead on the indicators (the alarm gives a pulse to flash the indicators).

The System 3 isn't really designed to do it, but it's not all that uncommon for it to blow the fuse when the indicator positive hits the frame (and grounds itself, completing the circuit). This happens because current comes from the bike (were you working on it with the ignition on? Usually the case) & then goes the wrong way back up the wire, and this doesn't have a diode on it.

The alarm then thinks "Oh bugger, what do I do with this?" & trips at least the inline fuse. If the inline fuse is in the same region (rating wise) as the main 30A fuse, a quick spike can be enough to blow this one too.

The system 3 is also designed (IIRC) from a safety standpoint. If the engine is running, and the alarm arms for any reason, it cannot enforce immobiliser. So you've no need to worry about your bike shutting down at 70mph on the motorway! The only thing that could do this is if the main fuse pops again (Carry the spare you bought with you).

That's about the only cause I can think of for both inline & main fuses going, unless you were tinkering with other electronics too.

Of course, it could be completely unrelated to your messing about, if you keep having problems, post back on the org I know naff all about the mechanical side, but aint too shabby on the electrics. I know there's other electronically minded folks here too

inline fuse on the alarm is 10amp- red un.. and both had gone.. all workin now and indicators do flash like before.. so hopefully all is well.
will get a new LED and put that on too.







ta for all your help all of you

[fizzwheel]

Originally Posted by petevtwin650

Ditto that, so useful and means you're not running down the fob battery all the time. Trouble is now I've got a Meta and it doesn't seem to have an easy set maintenance mode.

I miss my Datatool.

I love my Meta, I dont know what model you've got but with mine if you turn the ignition on and off again and dont start the bike after a minute it turns on the immobiliser but it doesnt arm the alarm, so you can wheel it about clean it etc without the alarm going off.

I hate the data tool on my SV its a total PIA especially when filling up with fuel. The one on Liz's Duke is just as much of a PIA to.