Tighening chain without a stand

You can do it on the sidestand with ease, best thing to do is use equal turns on both adjusters.

[yorkie_chris]

Originally Posted by Biker Biggles

If its a curvy you need to loosen the torque arm to the caliper as well.

No you don't.

Originally Posted by MrTom

What size is the axle nut on the curvy? I've heard it's 24mm, but one of the tools from the toolkit says '24' on it, but it's a mm or two too big.

22mm.


Usually less than 1/4 turn is necessary. Move both adjusters the same amount. If you go too far and have to back off the adjusters then back them off, then boot the wheel forward.

Originally Posted by Grinch

Pardon? Do you, never done it myself as the caliper is on a mount that 'hangs' of the wheel, so maybe you can tell me why this needs to be done? I thought the torque arm is just there to stop the caliper flippin' round the wheel when you brake.

Think about the geometry of things. The calliper mount is set on the spindle. You move the wheel back (or forward) you move the calliper mount back/forward.

The torsion arm is hard mounted/bolted to the swingarm and the calliper mount, therefore the torsion arm is a set length, but the length we require varies, so bearing in mind where the torsion arm is mounted to the calliper, the only way to take up the extra length/reduced length is for the calliper mount to revolve around the spindle. For it to do this (without stressing stuff) you should loosen the bolts on the torsion bar so that everything can rotate freely (bearing in mind the geometry of the rotation, the torsion bar will need to move up/down slightly too, so we need to allow it to do this).

So that is 'why'.

However in practice, small adjustments can be taken up by 'stressing' the components, or if the joints are not 'solid' they will rotate/move about with little/no stress anyway!!

If you are doing big adjustments (like putting a larger/smaller sprocket on, then you will prolly have to loosen bolts, if you are just taking up a little slack/wear, chances are you would never have encountered/relaised this problem/requirement

Ta!

[MiniMac]

All done, just on the tight side when my mate is sat on it, so just right when I sit on it (5 stone lighter!)

Thanks for your help. Should I not post again, my chain has snapped and I'm in a ditch, could you please scour the area around the A49 and Norwich.

T

Originally Posted by Grinch

I thought the torque arm is just there to stop the caliper flippin' round the wheel when you brake.

That actually happened to me last weekend. NO idea where that front bolt went, but it disappeared partway through a ride!


Blue_SV650S... Wow, thank you for explaining that. I never even thought about that before. It makes good sense though, I'll have to remember that next time I adjust.

Looks like I'm too late on this one, MiniMac is off to the road, but I'll throw it in anyway: Make sure to check the tension on the chain in a couple different places around the chain. This will help you keep an eye on your chain's general "health". If it's tight in some spots and loose in others, it's starting to get near the end of it's life. When it gets to a point where it's too tight in some spots and too loose in others, time for a new chain.

[yorkie_chris]

Yes I've lost one before. Wasn't much fun.

Safety wire is great stuff.

[MiniMac]

Made it to work in one piece, which is always a good start.

Was really low on fuel, engine cut out on me when I was at 9k RPM, then changed up two gears. Thankfully I was on a straight!

Originally Posted by yorkie_chris

yes i've lost one before. Wasn't much fun.

Safety wire is great stuff.

+ 1,000,000

[MiniMac]

Think it has slackened off a bit, will correct it tonight and give it a proper clean then Wurth lube it.

Axle nut not tight enough?