One thing not to do at a track day.....

.......push so hard that this happens:



Making you to spin, causing this:





Needless to say going into a 70mph bend and hearing a big bang was a little off putting!

So now the hard bit: A)do i need to replace the strut now? B) how do i sort out the wheel studs?

Other than that the day was amazing and Bedfords GT circuit is an absolute peach! I definatly pushed as hard as the puma will take clearly lol, if not a little out of depth there, the slowest thing was an MX5 going right up to race spec cars. Brilliant day and im glad my "mis-hap" was at the end of the day.

Cheers!
Ash.

Impressive! If you take the disk off, you should be able to knock the studs out from behind without taking the hub off which is effort. I'd change all four I think! Dunno about the strut though, maybe it's ok?
But again, Impressive!

Looks like a couple of your nuts were done up too tight there at some time and weakened the studs.

I would wager you will have to remove the hub or replace it in order to sort out the studs. I expect they will need pressing out from the front if you can get replacement studs, and you may not have clearance for them to be removed with the hub in place.

Mind you, I'd want to replace all four studs - if two have given in, there's no telling when the other two will go.

Strut wise, I'd be replacing both sides now or very soon, as I'd expect the strut travel and efficiency to be compromised by the distortion to the outer tube, and I wouldn't replace one without the other being done at the same time.

good effort!
the studs knock through from the front, hammer the end of the threads. to get the new 1s in use a nut thats too big and a wheel nut to pull it through.
looking at the disc id be tempted to do all 8 on the front, its probably the heat that has caused the failure.
shock is knackered!

Originally Posted by Dan

I would wager you will have to remove the hub or replace it in order to sort out the studs. I expect they will need pressing out from the front if you can get replacement studs, and you may not have clearance for them to be removed with the hub in place.

you can hammer them, they arent very tight, just held in by splines. ive done a few on sierras and fiestas. i would hope there is clearance otherwise the bearings will fall to pieces to get the flange out of the hub.

Originally Posted by svtomo

you can hammer them, they arent very tight, just held in by splines. ive done a few on sierras and fiestas. i would hope there is clearance otherwise the bearings will fall to pieces to get the flange out of the hub.

They're not always splined though - I've had interference fit studs on old British classic hubs which needed pressing, and equally I've encountered well rusted-in studs which wouldn't come out without a press... plus there's the fact that hammering isn't a very mechanically sympathetic way of removing the studs

I'm not sure where you're coming from with the bearings/clearance thing... I'd expect that the bearings would either be sealed straight or taper rollers... I can't see why one would expect them to fall apart by removing the hub.

Originally Posted by Dan

They're not always splined though - I've had interference fit studs on old British classic hubs which needed pressing, and equally I've encountered well rusted-in studs which wouldn't come out without a press... plus there's the fact that hammering isn't a very mechanically sympathetic way of removing the studs

I'm not sure where you're coming from with the bearings/clearance thing... I'd expect that the bearings would either be sealed straight or taper rollers... I can't see why one would expect them to fall apart by removing the hub.

im just thinking of the ford 1s ive done, they have all be splined and they were easy peasy, although i can imagine certain siezing issues.

removing the whole hub assembly wont correct any clearance problems between the flange and main hub, you would have to press the the flange out of the main hub which pulls the bearing to bits everytime. the bearing is a sealed unit but the inside is pressed onto the flange when fitted, they are not removeable/ refittable