Revving it at standstill.

[rictus01]

not a problem on one fitted with an accelerator pump though.

[Red Herring]

Originally Posted by rictus01

not a problem on one fitted with an accelerator pump though.

Does a 600 Hornet have an accelerator pump (or four)? My Hornet has done exactly what the Op describes from new, just let it idle for 20-30 seconds and then give it little stabs before riding it away.

[Spanner Man]

Good morning all.


Now for my fourpence worth!

It's all a question of throttle response Darlings. The fewer the cylinders an engine has, the longer it takes to respond to a fistful. This is because it's 'bangs' are further apart, than on an engine with more cylinders. Hence it takes longer (in fractions of a second) to overcome the inertia of the engines internals.
If an engine is not fully warmed up, the percentage of un burnt fuel per firing stroke is greater. Therefore giving it a fistful when it's cold or semi warm, effectively gives the spark plugs a bit of a soaking. This is commonly referred to as bogging down.


Cheers.


P.S. It's not a good idea to rev the B@LL@cks of an engine that's not under load in any case, & doing it when the engine is cold will accelerate engine wear further.

Barwell, good idea, and technically yea the fuel is cold so its more dense. But I suspect what is really happening here is that, whilst the machine is cold (I assume the OP has a curvy ) then when he blips the throttle, he;s getting a little carb icing, which is causing a lack of fuel flow to the engine and the bike cutting out.

Used to happen to me with my curvy, until I started using shell V-power during the cold months (perhaps you can try this aswell)

Barwell, you might have got confused with denser air when its cold? This would lean out an air/fuel mixture. My dad used to love riding his old carby GSXR750 on cool summer nights because it went a little faster and was more responsive off thr throttle

(i've never noticed a differance )

Peace to all

Matt

Thx for replies, its not causing an issue but is just something I noticed, onc eout and running it is faultless. It has been left standing for long periods of time this winter outside. (Yet undercover).

Originally Posted by Dizeee

Thx for replies, its not causing an issue but is just something I noticed, onc eout and running it is faultless. It has been left standing for long periods of time this winter outside. (Yet undercover).

That dosn't help too much either. When I;ve left my bike standing for long periods outside, its a bit of a pain to get started

Originally Posted by Red Herring

Most carb engines won't take a big throttle opening when cold, why not let it warm up a bit before blipping it?

Does this explain why my er6 sometimes cuts out in the mornings when the revs are low or I'm trying to blip it? More so when the bike has not been ridden for a bit.

[Stu]

Dizzee, I've never heard of this happening to an FI bike like yours before

Originally Posted by barwel1992

was been serious, but i could have misread what i was quoting hence the not %100 bit, but i read somthing a long while back (when having problems with my 50) that fuel is denser when its cold and can cause bad running, aparently thats why my 50 would smoke like a chimney in the moaning and night but be fin in the day time

Thats cus it was a two stroke, they need to warm up.

[fastdruid]

Originally Posted by Spanner Man

P.S. It's not a good idea to rev the B@LL@cks of an engine that's not under load in any case, & doing it when the engine is cold will accelerate engine wear further.

Agreed, its also not a good idea to let it idle either...

Idle is just about the worst possible for cam loading and oil flow. There is a sweet spot for warming up it depends on the bike but for example HRC say to warm up the NC30/35 at 5-6 k as this gives the least cam loading without reving it too high.

Druid