Clutch cable adjustmentioned help?!?

I have a manual and it looks to be the 80 to 85 degrees in relation to the cable. That's what I can't understand. I appreciate your comment and am willing to adjust it. So you think I need to slacken the locknuts on the arm adjuster and move it so the spring is not under as much pressure?

[Red ones]

Seriously, I would look to revisit the clutch adjustment first.

Check the chain tension, then do the clutch adjustment as per the attached image.
36k is typical for the stupid little balls in the release screw to wear out, the effect is similar to a stretched cable albeit that it is less predictable. A stretched cable is equally carp at pulling the clutch every time, the worn release screw may be great for a few operations after adjusting, but can then go off very quickly.

In my experience the clutch cable rarely stretches that much, I've replaced one in 100,000 miles on one SV, and not at all on the other two. The one that got replaced didn't fix the problem. The release screws are a whole different story and seem to start packing in from about 25,000 miles.
The release screw only has to be slightly out of alignment and, because of that great long lever to the point where the cable connects, the cable adjustment has to be huge to make up for it.

I appreciate that the release screw is four times the cost of the cable, but the upside is that it is much easier to replace (so long as you get it all in the right way round).

So you think the bit with the 3 and 4 on it in your diagram needs replacing

[millemille]

Originally Posted by tojo82

I have a manual and it looks to be the 80 to 85 degrees in relation to the cable. That's what I can't understand. I appreciate your comment and am willing to adjust it. So you think I need to slacken the locknuts on the arm adjuster and move it so the spring is not under as much pressure?

It may just be a trick of the camera angle, but I doubt it given the other indicators, but I think you've got the actuator arm way past the 80/85 degree angle.

This pic.....



....looks more how I'd expect the arm angle to look.

Maybe double check your angle with a pertractor?

Okay so it's the bolts above and below that adjuster I loosen to move it?

[ophic]

Originally Posted by tojo82

Okay so it's the bolts above and below that adjuster I loosen to move it?

No it's attached to the clutch lifter, which is worn, which is why the arm is at the wrong angle. Replace the lifter.

[millemille]

Originally Posted by ophic

No it's attached to the clutch lifter, which is worn, which is why the arm is at the wrong angle. Replace the lifter.

I don't see how you can say that from looking at one picture, and fundamentally what you are saying doesn't make sense.

Whether the actuator is worn or not is irrelevant to setting the arm at the correct angle.

Back off the cable adjuster on the lever, undo the lock nut, back off the actuator threaded adjuster, set the arm angle correctly with the cable barrel adjuster, wind the threaded adjuster in until it goes solid and then back off quarter of a turn and take up cable slack with the lever adjuster.

Nothing to do with the condition of the actuator.

A worn actuator will be evident in lever feel and insufficient clutch actuation.

Sorry to bring this back. I have now replaced the clutch cable and cleaned and lubed the release mechanism or actuator as it is caused. I have all my bearings inside the actuator and it is not broken and is in good order too. I asked a competent person to confirm this who has a good understanding of motorbikes and maintenance. He now says if all these bits have been checked and changed it must be the clutch plates itself causing the slack in the cable.

[garynortheast]

I had exactly the same trouble as you. It has absolutely nothing to do with clutch plates. I replaced the cable first, which made clutch operation considerably less gritty but it still did not sort out the length of travel or adjustment required to operate the clutch. I replaced the clutch worm drive and then adjusted the clutch actuation screw as millemille describes and I instantly had a correctly functioning clutch.

If you want to spend your time arguing the toss with people who have some considerable combined experience with these bikes, or your money needlessly on clutch plates along with all the faff of changing them, that's your perogative and will probably help you to build up your own knowledge and expertise.

Personally I bought the worm drive and adjusted the screw properly. End of story.

I am not trying to argue with anyone on here just get to the bottom of the problem.