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#91 |
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Set you multimeter to 200 Ω, the one with the little speaker near it, you have two shouldn't matter which one.
Touch the two probes together and you should get an audible beep or buzz and a low reading of 000 or 001 on the screen. This noise means you have continuity, no noise means a break somewhere. To test the wiring connect one probe to one end of the wire and the other probe to the other end. If you get the same noise as above you have continuity, if there is silence you have a break. If you get silence but a reading other than a 000, 001 etc then you have a high resistance connection, most likely caused by corrosion in the connectors. |
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#92 | |
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![]() Any ideas of points to test? My issue seems to be cutting, out the clocks going mental (digital odometer display going off and speedo pin darting around) and then not enough power to turnover or sometimes no power to the clocks or lights at all.
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#93 | |
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#94 |
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Ignition plug is a 6 pin green fella, behind the headstock IIRC. CDI plug is under the tail, on the CDI. But the CDI plug rarely fails, it's rubber sealed.
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#95 |
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I had an almost identical problem in another bike a few months ago.
It turned out to be a corroded connector where the ignition switch plugs into the main wiring loom. The switch handles most of the current running through the bike (apart from the starter motor which goes through the solenoid) so most things will be affected, clocks, cutting out etc. This caused a high resistance in a high current circuit which eventually melted the connector a little. My guess is you have a similar problem. I would test there first, check for signs of corrosion and heat damage on wiring and connectors. |
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#96 |
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Also on the back of the loom about level with the fuel tank hinge the main red wire out of the solenoid splits, one goes back to the fusebox, the other goes forward to the ignition. This connection can sometimes corrode. (but you have to dig around in the loom to get to the thing.)
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#97 |
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Cheers guys right I'll go try those. By ignition switch you mean the phsical switch on the switch gear right? Just a case of testing continuity between the ignion wire on that block and the same wire on another block somewhere along the loom?
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#98 |
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Yeah exactly, hopefully a resistance test will show you where a wire is broken.
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#99 |
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Cool I'll go have some fun then.
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#100 |
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The switch I had the trouble with was the main switch, the one you put your key into rather than the starter switch on the right hand bar. But its definitely worth checking both.
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