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Old 09-10-09, 02:56 PM   #111
barwel1992
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Default Re: rear shock change

right i got the shock bolt and put it through the bottom and all is well but when i screw the bolt on it just stopes because there is stops on the nut but theres about 3mm of play so in other words with the nut fully tightend you can move it side to side a tiny bit is this right ? or should i washer it each side?

thanks havent started yet just trying the bolt
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Old 09-10-09, 03:05 PM   #112
CheGuevara
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Default Re: rear shock change

By stops on the nut do you mean some thin fins near the ends of the threads? These are meant to act as a sort of thread-lock, not stops.

Otherwise - I would definitely use some washers if you have some slack -don't think you'd be able to torque it properly otherwise (might work itself loose).
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Old 09-10-09, 03:05 PM   #113
madness
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Default Re: rear shock change

Stops on the nut? If you screwed the nut onto the bolt by hand and it stopped when the end of the bolt touched the little metal bits (the stops), then you need to tighten it up with a torque wrench to the specified torque. When you say 'stops on the nut' I think you're refering to the inserts in the nut that stop it vibrating loose. It's type of locking nut, similar to a nyloc nut but with a metal insert.
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Old 09-10-09, 03:07 PM   #114
barwel1992
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Default Re: rear shock change

oh ok its the locking fins thanks ^^both
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Old 09-10-09, 04:34 PM   #115
Lucas
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Default Re: rear shock change

Quote:
Originally Posted by Neeja View Post
Unfortunately not. The top edge of the battery ends up against the seat, and the seat can't be replaced. You could always hack a bit off the seat to make it work, but with the slimmer battery it all fits perfectly. If you're wary of putting a smaller battery into the bike (it does have a slightly lower capacity than stock), you can use a YB14B-BS instead of the YB12B-BS. You can also buy a cheap brand YB14B-BS, as the CCA of it is going to be miles more than the SV needs, whereas if you're getting a YB12B-BS you need to buy a decent (Yuasa/Varta etc.) one.

However, bear in mind that this is an install using a 636 B1H shock. If you've got a different one to put in the modifications may be different.
mine's a ZX10R 08, looks similar with angled thingy.

thanks for the tips
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Old 09-10-09, 06:17 PM   #116
barwel1992
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Default Re: rear shock change

just got the shock in but not tightend as my socket shreded ...... pain in the ass also i dont have a socket that fits the nut i got to day so going halford to moz to get some sockets

what did you lot do with the rubber cover thing under the battery box atm i have slit it so its not pressing on the shock

also the battery sits on the rez when its in there do i just shuv stuf under there to keep it off the shock ? and remove the seat rubber bottom things ?

thanks

PS taken me 3 hours due to lack off a socket and having to work the bolts off using only spaners ....

Last edited by barwel1992; 09-10-09 at 06:20 PM.
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Old 09-10-09, 07:03 PM   #117
pms jones
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Default Re: rear shock change

Just fitted my shock today looks to be the same as yours.Have the same problem with the battery and the seat like you have. Have been looking at new batteries and found one witch is 105mm tall not 130mm like the factory one. So would give some room under the seat i hope.
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Old 09-10-09, 07:16 PM   #118
Rob969
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Default Re: rear shock change

seen this on ebay http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Kawasaki-ZX10R...d=p3286.c0.m14 has anyone fitted one to a curvy, wondering what it'd be like to fit and how it'd suit someone who's 15stone with kit,
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Old 09-10-09, 07:19 PM   #119
yorkie_chris
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Default Re: rear shock change

Good shock but too short. Goes in OK and is an improvement.

Wouldn't pay £70 for one though!
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Old 09-10-09, 07:25 PM   #120
Rob969
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Default Re: rear shock change

what would you recommend, thought i'd be a good easy change as its only 1mm longer but stiffer
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