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#11 |
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The instructions say I need to use 65 ft-lbs and locking agent
http://forums.sv650.org/showthread.p...ng+motosliders Think UK torque wrenches use Nm. anyone know what 65 ft-lbs is in Nm? |
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#12 | |
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#13 |
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If you're going to Machine Mart they do a fairly good, big 1.2 inch torque wrench which helpfully comes with a 3/8 convertor, it's about £15 I think and good enough for most bike work (though don't use it for low values!). You might need fairly deep sockets too, since the end ofthe bolt can stick way out.
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#14 |
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So, looks like I will need:
19mm 6-point 1/2 inch socket 17mm 6-point 1/2 inch socket 1/2 inch torque wrench 1/2 inch breaker bar Copper slip locking agent Is that right? |
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#15 |
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Somebody call for an engineery type?
65lbf ft = 88 Nm is Don't use red loctite on both ends otherwise you'll never get them off. I'll let somebody else say whether you should use copperslip or not. I don't think loctite is necessary myself, as its pretty tight, and I check bolts regularly. Deep sockets would help, when we fitted dizzyblondes the bolt stuck out quite a lot, somebody mentioned this further up. Also a 1/2 extension bar, as even a deep socket won't go down the middle of the slider far enough.
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#16 |
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I think both nust are nylocs, I certainly didn't threadlock them, then, I don't threadlock very much since I take teh entire bike apart about once a month anyway
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#17 |
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I think they are nylocs. One side is already attached to the bolt. Sounds like I shouldn't use locking agent incase I need to remove them at some point, like if I drop it and need to replace the sliders?
Although, if this is the bolt that holds part of the engine in place shouldn't it be locked tight? |
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#18 |
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Yes it should be locked tight.
But loctite doesn't mean its locked tight, IMO just torque it down right.
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#19 |
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Thanks very much guys. Appreciate all the tips. Will try and get them on this weekend then down to box hill for a blast.
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#20 |
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Just had a thought. instead of copper slip, would WD40 help undo the bolts?
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