Problem removing oil filter.

thanks for the replys guys but luckerly the chain stap remover worked all be it two of the four teeth that hold the chain snapped off thanks anyway, Dom

[STRAMASHER]

I have had to tap a filter off before after some garage goon overtightened it.

Flathead screwdriver, hammer. Tap,tap tap on the rolled lip next to the engine casing. Good to tap both ways to loosen the seal up a wee bit.

Buy a filter wrench, socket type doodah in the right size. No more fannying about. Every filter change a joy.

[maviczap]

And only hand tighten it !

I'll see your overtightened filter and raise you a radiator filler cap removed with stillsons at the dealers as it "wouldnt budge" might have been something to do with the grub screw which hadn't been removed. Neesdless to say i got a new cap out ouf them. doh

And make sure that you clean the surface first, and don't accidentallly leave the old rubber seal in place... And get a few litres of expensive oil over your brand new boots first time out (and have to push the bike 4km's home at 6:30 am)...

Success for the next time you have to remove it. (incidently if you do the above it's *very* easy to remove next time )

Hi Biddyman. I understand your comments. But to clarify, I maintain my bike with no expense spared,and take great care with any mechanical procedures. However, the oil filter is a consumable item & is just thrown away , the important bit is how it is replaced. A smear of fresh oil on the seal - clean the area it will seat against, and screw it on carefully, then do up hand tight (OK very hand tight). It works fine. No problem if you use a special tool to undo it, but I dont think it's worth it. The most important thing is to change the oil (and filter) regularly, I do this every 4000 miles. I have done this on previous bikes which I have had for almost 100,000 miles on (each), and the engines have always outlasted others including those serviced by dealers, without engine or clutch problems. Mt ST is still like new after 26,000 miles and I intend to keep if for a few years more and this should be well over 200,000 minimum. :03biker:

[Bibio]

http://www.halfords.com/webapp/wcs/s...egoryId_165469

[Richie]

Originally Posted by maviczap

And only hand tighten it !

putting it back on...all depends on how hand tight you do it...
5 year old hand tight againts a 27 year old just been to the gym hand tight...
common sence shoud rule..
tight enought so no oil leeks are there...


takeing the old one off..
dont hit the engine.. or centre thread.. otherwise.. be brutel..

Originally Posted by maviczap

And only hand tighten it !

Well this is from the official Suzuki workshop manual




I've done my filter up to that spec before and it's damned tight.

[embee]

This is one of the things where I'll happily say the manual is plain misleading.

Ignore the "2 turns" thing. Basically the principle is that the O-ring is compressed down until the filter can makes metal-to-metal contact with the engine, after that point there is no reason to tighten it much further. Going further risks distorting the can (and then it might leak).

The filter can is designed so that the O-ring compression is controlled, they have an optimum compression value so they seal but don't rupture.

As the others say, clean surfaces, a little clean engine oil on the O-ring, then tighten as tight as you can sensibly by hand. You'll feel when the joint goes metal-to-metal, it'll be difficult to turn it further. Tightened like this they will not come undone, but will be reasonably easy to remove come next service.