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#11 |
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#12 |
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A method that I've used in the past is to file two sides of the stud down, so I can get a good grip with the molegrips or a spanner.
Tom |
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#13 |
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I'd say have a pop first.
I've had the pleasure of welding a nut on a snapped stud & found that tacking was no good (kept shearing off). When I gave it some proper weld the nut melted but instead of using the socket set I went to the stud extractor which saved the day. Later that year the other stud sheared off inside the head (yay). I bought one of these http://www.aldn.com/Pages/drillOut.php which is the bomb. Good luck. p.s. sux re hotmail |
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#14 | |
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![]() where did you get your's from Last edited by barwel1992; 07-01-11 at 10:24 PM. |
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#15 |
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ordered one of them, if that dosn't work its off to the machine shop any way
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#16 |
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Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: Devon
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Most of the broken stud/bolt extractors only work well if the fastener has been broken simply through being over torqued - if a substantial part of the threaded section has corroded in place they are far less useful IME. Welding a nut on has only failed me a few times, and then only when there wasn't enough stud protruding. Ultimately, drilling out the bolt and using a heli-coil if necessary is a cheap and permanent fix.
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#17 | |
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#18 |
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