Clutch Not Disengaging

[Nicky S]

Originally Posted by Viney

I didnt listen to this piece of advice but i advise you to. Dont buy anything other than Suzuki own brend clutch plates. EBC ones warp or drag. I have all manner of issues with my clutch a while back, and it turned out to be worn plates, i replaced them with EBC ones and had nightmares, changing everything including the basket, bearings etc. I managed to get hold of a secondhand clutch assebly whole including Suzuki plates. Changed just the plates (not steels(done them later)) and the clutch was fine and dandy.

Now Nicky, not sure if you do a lot of Clutch up wheelies? This can notch the clutch basket quite badly and this can cause the clutch to drag as well.

So, get yourself a new set of plates, and if the steels are very blue, a new set of them as well. Oh, and dont bother changing the springs for any heavy duty ones. They make no differeence just make your clutch heavy.

DW iv heard about buying EBC, and i just got the clutch drive plate from suzuki. the plates seem fine i have not measured them as i dont have the tool to do it. but just from look and feel them seem fine. the steels arnt blue and are not groved.

i though that is what the springs would do anyway. but i also checked the springs to see if they were bent but they are fine.

thanks for the advice Viney

Originally Posted by muddydude

I had excatly the same problem as you.When I engaged 1st gear the bike would stall ,It was that bad..I cleaned the plates in petrol put them backtogether with new oil and its much much better..

i know it is a wet clutch but is it a good idea to clean the plates in petrol or should i use engine oil / brake cleaner.

i will clean the plates and steels when i refit them

Originally Posted by beabert

It will be back lol

As above avoid ebc plates! they break easily.

[Viney]

Ok, another question

If you have the clutch cover off and you pull the lever in, does the clutch move?

I would find it hard to believe that the actuator rod from the back of the worm drive to be bent if im honest, but like all things, i suppose its not impossible. I have a bottom half of an engine at home. I'll see if there is one in there that you can borrow to see if it solves it. Will PM you in the next ocuple of days (I will forget as im getting old) I also have a spare basket etc (Well 3, 1 spare, and 1 in each of the engines i have!!) Im sure we can sort it. You could come up to me and we can swap bits round at the weekend to see if we can make it go away

[Nicky S]

Originally Posted by Viney

Ok, another question

If you have the clutch cover off and you pull the lever in, does the clutch move?

I would find it hard to believe that the actuator rod from the back of the worm drive to be bent if im honest, but like all things, i suppose its not impossible. I have a bottom half of an engine at home. I'll see if there is one in there that you can borrow to see if it solves it. Will PM you in the next ocuple of days (I will forget as im getting old) I also have a spare basket etc (Well 3, 1 spare, and 1 in each of the engines i have!!) Im sure we can sort it. You could come up to me and we can swap bits round at the weekend to see if we can make it go away

yes it moves. i spent a lot of time looking at it last night and im pretty sure that it is not bent but i spose its not something to rule out yet. will see if this new clutch drive plate changes anything. then go from there

[Viney]

Look for serious notching of the clutch basket as well.

If the basket ends up being notched, I've got an entire clutch assembly sitting around doing nothing but waiting for people to be interested in buying it...

[Sir Trev]

Originally Posted by mister c

Depends on how often you use the bike. Could be plates sticking together, maybe.
I'm having a problem with mine at the moment as it's hardly being used. When I pull it out of the shed, start her up then engage 1st gear, the bike lunges forward as iff the clutch hasn't been engaged. It then, on re starting, tries to pull forwards, but is ok after that initial stall.

There is a simple way to reduce this effect. Before engaging gear fully pull in the clutch and blip the throttle a couple of times - it helps the plates separate as they're meant to. Then let the revs drop to tickover BEFORE engaging gear so that any remaining jolt is not amplified by engine speed. This will help reduce wear (and embarassment if you have an audience).

[mister c]

Originally Posted by Sir Trev

There is a simple way to reduce this effect. Before engaging gear fully pull in the clutch and blip the throttle a couple of times - it helps the plates separate as they're meant to. Then let the revs drop to tickover BEFORE engaging gear so that any remaining jolt is not amplified by engine speed. This will help reduce wear (and embarassment if you have an audience).

Cheers for that, but seeing how bad the English weather is at the moment the Triumph is taking all the mileage, the SV just sits in the shed most of the time sad & forlorn, so I will try that next time Custard comes out to play.

As for EBC clutch plates, when the SV was used daily, I didnt have a problem with mine & they have been in for about 12 months. I will keep my eye on them now though.

[Nicky S]

Originally Posted by Viney

Look for serious notching of the clutch basket as well.

I think the basket is fine the plates dont seem to move side to side.

I have also bought a clutch cable from suzuki. Holding it up against the none suzuki one i have in my bike their is a lot of difference.

So im hopeing fitting the new clutch release plate and the cable should fix my problem fingers crossed

Ill update 2mz after i have fitted and re-adjusted everything

[Nicky S]

Whop whop fixed