Fuel mix screws - Page 2 - SV650.org

21QUEST · 10-09-05, 11:56 PM

When it gets fooked by someone I guess

Cheers
Ben

TSM · 11-09-05, 12:08 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by PeterM

Might want to try WD-40/RP7 or whatever you guys have for loosening threads before drilling away. The air screws shouldn't be that hard to move, unless someone has set them at the std 2 1/2 turns out and used threadlock (completely unnecessary).

Yes, 137.5 Mikuni mains are std from the factory too.

Tried WD4-, even left it for a while. Did not work, they seem set solid.

What about thoes bits to remove broken bolts? Will they work?

If i try to drill it out then i am guessing that it will have to be something like a 4mm bit then use a 5mm tap to take the old stuff out and put it back to normal (dont know what the sizes are)??

11-09-05, 12:17 AM

Last resort should be drilling. Try to give the end of your scredriver a good knock with a hammer to try and free the thread up a bit. (Place screwdriver on head of screw and hit along axis of driver & screw like hammering a nail in) Sometimes this will free the thread.

If you do have to get a tap, get the smallest you can find, it's not a terribly big screw.

TSM · 11-09-05, 12:24 AM

Tried that as well.

21QUEST · 11-09-05, 12:26 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by TSM

Quote:

Originally Posted by PeterM

Might want to try WD-40/RP7 or whatever you guys have for loosening threads before drilling away. The air screws shouldn't be that hard to move, unless someone has set them at the std 2 1/2 turns out and used threadlock (completely unnecessary).

Yes, 137.5 Mikuni mains are std from the factory too.

Tried WD4-, even left it for a while. Did not work, they seem set solid.

What about thoes bits to remove broken bolts? Will they work?

If i try to drill it out then i am guessing that it will have to be something like a 4mm bit then use a 5mm tap to take the old stuff out and put it back to normal (dont know what the sizes are)??

I take it the head is wrecked. Drill bit wise 4mm is too big to off with. You wan't to start with the really ickle ones 1mm/1.5 and go from there.

You'll need a new screw and the o ring. Have you got those already. Shoot me a PM(with phone number) as I may be going to Dulwich tomorrow.
That being the case provided you need to get your bike on the ASAP I'll get you a carb and you can nick an air screw off it. I'll of course be need you to post a replacement to me..

Cheers
Ben

11-09-05, 12:24 AM	#14
TSM The Sick Man Mega Poster Join Date: Nov 2004 Location: Peckham.SE.LDN Posts: 4,768	Tried that as well. __________________ OTR: KTM 690 Duke R 2015 Full Akro SIDELINE: Kwak ZX636 A1P 2002, Red, R&G's, Yoshi, Double Bubble Screen GONE: Kwak ZX-7R P1, Full Akro, Undertray, Screen GONE: SV650S K2 Very Bruised & Without Fairing, Motovation Frame Sliders, R&G Ally Sprocket Toe Protector, HEL 2 Line Setup, GSXR K1 600 RWU Forks, Barnett Clutch & Springs, Penske 8981 Shock, Gilles Ti Rearsets, Steel Barends, Scottoiler, AFAM Chain & Sprockets, Twin FIAMM Horns, Skidmarx Bellypan, Full Micron Zeta Steel System, Cut down undertay. Forum Problems & Information / Site Suggestions

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11-09-05, 12:17 AM	#13
PeterM Guest Posts: n/a	Last resort should be drilling. Try to give the end of your scredriver a good knock with a hammer to try and free the thread up a bit. (Place screwdriver on head of screw and hit along axis of driver & screw like hammering a nail in) Sometimes this will free the thread. If you do have to get a tap, get the smallest you can find, it's not a terribly big screw.