Quick Torque Wrench Q - Page 2 - SV650.org

Viney · 01-08-06, 11:21 AM

You dont need a torque wrench. Just do it up very tight.

If you do need one, then i have a draper 10-80nm which serves the purpose, as on the Curvey SV the rear nut only needs to be done up to 65nm

01-08-06, 11:43 AM

i've never used a torque wrench to adjust my chain, i've done it plenty of times, i'd be tempted to agree with Viney, just make sure its done up nice and tight.

01-08-06, 11:49 AM

In my experience, the correct torque for the rear axle conincides exactly with the breaking strain of the spanner from the bike tool kit that fits it.

northwind · 01-08-06, 11:50 AM

That's handy

I was kind of amazed to hear anyone can undo that bolt with the standard toolkit...

01-08-06, 11:59 AM

Wasnt easy i must admit, and didnt do the nut much good :/ The spanner broke (the ring split) when putting it back on, i got worried and took it to a mate's workshop and checked, 98NM accoding to his wrench. Does make you wonder exactly why they supply you with a spanner that size, given that they made a decision to use plasticine as the metal of choice.

01-08-06, 02:10 PM

Not happy about doing it by feel. Alright if you've been fettling for years, but the temptation to just do it a bit more could mean the wheel bearings are under additional load, or under-tightened with potentially fatal consequences.
For the relatively small cost, and the fact that if it's treated carefully a torque wrench will last for years, it's a worthwhile investment. Plus aren't those pointy swingarms liable to bow under excess force?

01-08-06, 04:44 PM

There is no load on the wheel bearings from tightening up the axle, you cannot damage bike wheel bearings by overtightening the axle.
The ball race setup in a bike wheel is different to the taper roller bearings on many car hubs where the retaining nut does adjust the play in the bearings.

I have 2 torque wrenches in my tool box but they are probably the least used tools I own. Apart from head gaskets I prefer just to tighten things up by feel. Bike forums are full of posts from upset owners who have just snapped bolts (cam cap bolts seem to be a favourite) while trying to tighten them up to the factory torque setting.

cheers

Stewart

Biker Biggles · 01-08-06, 05:01 PM

I'd agree with that.I guesstimate most of the torque figures.The rear axle nut gets done with a fifteen inch bar until it feels tight.I do regularly check bolts to make sure they are not dropping off though.

Richie · 01-08-06, 07:47 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by glade

25mm Nut on rear axle

Think you'll find it's a 24mm nut.

01-08-06, 09:38 PM

In the US of course, the SV wheel nut is two swithens less than 13/16s of a sparrow hawk foot.

You and your silly metric systems. It will never catch on.

01-08-06, 11:50 AM	#14
northwind Moderator Mega Poster Join Date: Jan 2004 Location: In the garage where I belong Posts: 17,083	That's handy I was kind of amazed to hear anyone can undo that bolt with the standard toolkit... __________________ "We are the angry mob, we read the papers every day We like what we like, we hate what we hate But we're oh so easily swayed"

01-08-06, 05:01 PM	#18
Biker Biggles Member Mega Poster Join Date: Jan 2005 Location: Barnet Herts Posts: 5,071	I'd agree with that.I guesstimate most of the torque figures.The rear axle nut gets done with a fifteen inch bar until it feels tight.I do regularly check bolts to make sure they are not dropping off though. __________________ On a clear day we stand there and look further than the ordinary eye can see.

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01-08-06, 11:21 AM	#11
Viney Member Mega Poster Join Date: Jul 2003 Location: In the shadows to the left Posts: 7,700	You dont need a torque wrench. Just do it up very tight. If you do need one, then i have a draper 10-80nm which serves the purpose, as on the Curvey SV the rear nut only needs to be done up to 65nm

01-08-06, 11:43 AM	#12
keithd Guest Posts: n/a	i've never used a torque wrench to adjust my chain, i've done it plenty of times, i'd be tempted to agree with Viney, just make sure its done up nice and tight.

01-08-06, 11:49 AM	#13
shao Guest Posts: n/a	In my experience, the correct torque for the rear axle conincides exactly with the breaking strain of the spanner from the bike tool kit that fits it.

01-08-06, 11:59 AM	#15
shao Guest Posts: n/a	Wasnt easy i must admit, and didnt do the nut much good :/ The spanner broke (the ring split) when putting it back on, i got worried and took it to a mate's workshop and checked, 98NM accoding to his wrench. Does make you wonder exactly why they supply you with a spanner that size, given that they made a decision to use plasticine as the metal of choice.

01-08-06, 02:10 PM	#16
petevtwin650 Guest Posts: n/a	Not happy about doing it by feel. Alright if you've been fettling for years, but the temptation to just do it a bit more could mean the wheel bearings are under additional load, or under-tightened with potentially fatal consequences. For the relatively small cost, and the fact that if it's treated carefully a torque wrench will last for years, it's a worthwhile investment. Plus aren't those pointy swingarms liable to bow under excess force?

01-08-06, 04:44 PM	#17
stewart-250 Guest Posts: n/a	There is no load on the wheel bearings from tightening up the axle, you cannot damage bike wheel bearings by overtightening the axle. The ball race setup in a bike wheel is different to the taper roller bearings on many car hubs where the retaining nut does adjust the play in the bearings. I have 2 torque wrenches in my tool box but they are probably the least used tools I own. Apart from head gaskets I prefer just to tighten things up by feel. Bike forums are full of posts from upset owners who have just snapped bolts (cam cap bolts seem to be a favourite) while trying to tighten them up to the factory torque setting. cheers Stewart

01-08-06, 09:38 PM	#20
philipMac Guest Posts: n/a	In the US of course, the SV wheel nut is two swithens less than 13/16s of a sparrow hawk foot. You and your silly metric systems. It will never catch on.