White smoke, Oil, Power Loss. Help

[fastdruid]

Well I always clean them just because I've got access... There is no actual *need* but seeing as you have it apart you may as well.

As for the rest, I for one can't see anything 'wrong', the head gaskets (from the pictures) look like all do when they've been used.

Druid

Thats what I was worried about - the not finding an obvious blown head gasket. Now - should I be able to separate the layers of the head gaskets? To me, I was chalking that up to being the issue. As in this picture: http://www.flickr.com/photos/2421681...7624018060604/

While I was cleaning them up this morning I noticed that the space around the piston in the front cylinder looks to NOT be equal on all sides. I wasn't sure if it was just me or what. In this image, if you compare the left side to the right side: http://www.flickr.com/photos/2421681...7623898603235/

I'll try to take a better picture of this later.

[Sid Squid]

Sadly, as you say, there's nothing obviously wrong from the pictures you've taken - that's not to say there isn't of course, just that it's not apparent from the pictures.
Head gasket layers can be separated: Normal.
The photo you have which you say shows inconsistency in bore/piston isn't obviously a problem, a better picture might show this more clearly - as discussed earlier in the thread your compression tests suggested neither a problem with bores/rings or head gaskets.
That said a freaky occurance with an oil control ring can't be ruled out I suppose but, even if that accounted for the smoke, as long as the compressions were OK I don't immediately see how that would account for the oil in the airbox; if the oil control were a problem oil might make its way above the rings and into the CC, but that would then go out of the exhaust, only if the crankcase pressure were abnormally high might that account for the oil blown up the breathers into the airbox.

Maybe.

I know I'm not much help - but I think you need to cast your net wider for the problem. Before removing more parts with the consequent costs that involves, a thorough check of everything is definately advised.

I say this cautiously - I'm sure you checked, but are you certain the oil level was correct before the problem became apparent? A high oil level would account for the oil in the airbox, which would also account for the smoky exhaust.

I say this cautiously - I'm sure you checked, but are you certain the oil level was correct before the problem became apparent? A high oil level would account for the oil in the airbox, which would also account for the smoky exhaust.

I did check the oil level and it was fine. But at this point, who knows. Hell, I'd be happy if it was just too much oil. I can write this up as a learning experience...

Originally Posted by Sid Squid

That said a freaky occurance with an oil control ring can't be ruled out I suppose but

What/Where is the Oil Control Ring?

only if the crankcase pressure were abnormally high might that account for the oil blown up the breathers into the airbox.

What could cause abnormal high pressure?

We'll im in this far - should i take a look at the Piston rings while im here? i wasnt planning on it, but...

I tried to take some better pictures of the piston, but with in being inset, it was a bit tough. This is probably the best picture:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/2421681...7623899045623/

(Here are all of the photos)
http://www.flickr.com/photos/2421681...7623899045623/

[fastdruid]

Originally Posted by jasonkoscho

While I was cleaning them up this morning I noticed that the space around the piston in the front cylinder looks to NOT be equal on all sides. I wasn't sure if it was just me or what. In this image, if you compare the left side to the right side: http://www.flickr.com/photos/2421681...7623898603235/

Pistons are oval when cold, reason being is there is more metal around the gudgen pin so they expand more. The bores OTOH are circular so there is a slight discrepancy when cold that vanishes when hot. Not sure if this is what you are seeing or not.

Druid

[fastdruid]

Originally Posted by jasonkoscho

What/Where is the Oil Control Ring?

Its normally the third 'ring' (its actually three rings in one groove) down from the top, this isn't an SV piston but shows the location:


And here we see one fitted (again not an SV)


It does what it says on the tin, controls oil and stops it from getting past to burn in the combustion chamber.

What could cause abnormal high pressure?

We'll im in this far - should i take a look at the Piston rings while im here? i wasnt planning on it, but...

I have to be honest I'd have left the engine in the frame myself!

TBH seeing as you have the heads off it is the work of moments on the SV to whip the barrels off too, that way you can at least be certain about the condition of the bottom end too (although saying that any play in the bottom end can be detected without even removing the heads).

Druid

Hey thanks. This is great. Like I said, "A learning experience". Some frustration, some pain, a little blood, a few beers and some F-bombs. That sounds like my typical learning experience.

Are the piston rings something that once I remove the Cylinder, I need to replace the rings? I'll probably replace them anyway, just fore peace of mind. But if they look fine, is it a necessity once the cylinder has been removed.

if you do that you will need to deglaze the barrels, also the oil rings can be an **** to put back in from experience depending on he poston dimensions. Id personally leave it alone.

[fastdruid]

No need to replace unless they are worn or broken. Only thing is to make sure you mark everything to make sure it goes back the way it came off, I suggest a marker pen to put a mark the top of the rings (or the bottom but use the same method everytime) so no confusion with which way up/down they go. I tend to go for 1 mark for 1st ring, 2 marks for 2nd, 3 marks for 1st oil control and 4 for 2nd oil control (plus marking the oil control spacer too). Careful when cleaning not to lose the marks!

It is recommended that you replace the gudgeon pin circlips if you remove them though, they are pennies though.

Typically you'd use a bore gauge to measure the er bore taking measurements in a number of places to assess if it needs a re-bore then assuming all is good you remove the rings, fit them into the bore and measure the gap between the ends with feeler gauges, if this over a certain size then you replace. Or as previous if any damage etc.

You may find that the problem is a pinpr1ck[1] hole or crack in the barrel liner or it could have been the head gasket and just rebuilding it now will cure it!

Druid

[1] Just as bad as the sweary filter staring scu nthorpe

[fastdruid]

Originally Posted by beabert

if you do that you will need to deglaze the barrels

Only if replacing the rings.

also the oil rings can be an **** to put back in from experience depending on he piston dimensions. Id personally leave it alone.

I don't recall the SV being that bad, not as bad as a 360 degree parallel twin certainly!

Druid